[TJ] Tadschikistan Pamir Durchquerung 2024

[thedutch]

Day 17

After the rest day it was time to move on again. Fellow tourist Karl from Germany took us along with his hired jeep to Roshov so that a long and trying walk along the road was spared. All in all a astonishing ride and a bit scary every now and then when the sides of the cliff we drove along went down a couple of hundred meters.
First part of the walk was easy along the irrigation channel with once again beautiful views down the valley.
After the channel finished it went straight up again. We crossed a stream directly next to the glacier as it was the best place to cross. What a scene all that water coming out of the mound of the glacier.
We arrived at a nice campsite at roughly 3800 meter at the end of the afternoon.. Had some fun at a yak dung fire after the sun went down.


Preparing the luggage for the ride



The Tajiks have humor



Almost ready to go for the next strech



I would say; not of this world





Walking up the irrigation channel



Putting on our shoes after crossing the cold glacier stream directly next to the glacier







Somewhere behind this little hill we camped for the night

[thedutch]

Day 16

Today was our „zero“ day. Meant that we didn’t do much.
Bit of hanging around, little walk through the village, eating, reading and napping.
End of the day I joined the jeep ride to Savnob to bring our „donkey man“ Otan home.
No real need to comment all the pictures. All of the shots were made as I went for a walk through the village. The woman stirring the pan is cooking apricot marmalade. The last picture in the row is the village of Nisur that we passed bringing Otan home.

[StefanBoe]

Very interesting! And very impressive, wide and empty landscapes. I didn`t see anything about Pamir Mountains till now. My favourite spot is Zarojkul lake - just great.

[thedutch]

Day 15

Easy walk through a beautiful gorge.
Actually not that easy as we had a pretty steep climb till we got our first view of Barchidev village.
This village is home to our guide Nasrullo.
We were welcomed at the homestay of his cousin Nur- Mohammed.
Lovely place and we spent a lazy afternoon in the garden.
I spent late afternoon with the local boys with food and vodka.



The day started easy walking pretty level through the gorge



Scouting for Ibex?



Looking back



A good bridge as this trail is used by the men of the geological station





Just call it happy



With a bit of a closer look you can pick up the trail



A view back once again





Smiling Nasrullo a his village Barchidev is close



One final crossing before reaching Barchidev



Harvest time



Arrival



A cold beer as reward

[thedutch]

Hi David,
thanks for the information.
I read that you need a GBAO permit for the region. Do you mean this permit is for Lake Sarez, or is it a separate permit for Lake Sarez? If it is a separate permit, where do you get it from?
The Tajik National Park is huge. Where do you pay the entry fee?
LG Bernd

Hi Bernd, the GBAO permit can be applied for together with the visa and is the easy one. Not sure how the Sarez permit works. Our guide organized it but I never saw it in real! The Tajik national park permit is paid mostly at the valley entrances. As there are not a lot of tourists around word spreads fast and the park guards will find you.
We never really paid the same price. Some guys were nice and gave a discount or cut of a few days others tried to add a few extra days. I don’t really want to take the word in my mouth but is all kind of strange. Two times we got some official kind of national park permit but the other times a hand written piece of paper. A receipt that you paid a certain amount, forget it. But when you hear what these guards earn as a salary you can imagine everything a bit more easy.

[berniehh]

Hi Bernd, for lake Zarosh there are no restrictions but you need to pay 10 US dollars for every day that you spend in the Tajik national park. The bush phone or as the locals joke “KGB” works very well so it is almost impossible to avoid paying.
Lake Sarez is a security zone and you need a permit. Can’t remember if the price was 30 or 50 US dollars.
cheers David

Hi David,
thanks for the information.
I read that you need a GBAO permit for the region. Do you mean this permit is for Lake Sarez, or is it a separate permit for Lake Sarez? If it is a separate permit, where do you get it from?
The Tajik National Park is huge. Where do you pay the entry fee?
LG Bernd

[thedutch]

This is a really fantastic area, especially the area around Lake Sarez and Lake Zaroskhul!
Are there any restrictions for individual solo trekkers? Do you need a permit or not?

Hi Bernd, for lake Zarosh there are no restrictions but you need to pay 10 US dollars for every day that you spend in the Tajik national park. The bush phone or as the locals joke “KGB” works very well so it is almost impossible to avoid paying.
Lake Sarez is a security zone and you need a permit. Can’t remember if the price was 30 or 50 US dollars.
cheers David

[berniehh]

This is a really fantastic area, especially the area around Lake Sarez and Lake Zaroskhul!
Are there any restrictions for individual solo trekkers? Do you need a permit or not?

[thedutch]

Day 14

Today would be one of the highlights of the hike and with such a magnificent start of the day!
A boat ride across the deep blue Sarez lake with baren mountains along its shores and with some remote trails here and there.
We were welcomed by the crew of the geological station that monitor the natural dam that was caused by an earthquake in 1911. This landslide dam basically holds up the full 75 kilometer long Sarez lake. If the dam were to break during a future earthquake it would cause a catastrophic flood and kill thousands of people.
We had tea with fish at the station and got a bit of an explanation about lake Sarez and the dam.
After some time we left to continue our hike into the massive gorge of the Murghab river.


The boat ride across lake Sarez





The “ damn“



Fresh fish







Donkey number one was left at the meteorological station and donkey number two was taken from the geological station





Is that where we go?







No words needed for such a landscape









Everyone with a smile on their face

[thedutch]

Day 13

We left the shepherds place after tea and a friendly goodbye.
The walk started easy but after the first river crossing we had to cross various mud and rock slides. Difficult walking with rockfall and very strenuous.
Late afternoon we reached the meteorological station at the beginning of lake Sarez.
Two guys run this lonely place for a month until the next two guys come to replace them.
Dinner was the rest of the sheep from yesterday.
But the best thing was yet to happen; a sauna!!!
During the Soviet era the Russians built a sauna in this place. What a treat to our harmed bodies.


The sheep and goats in their enclosure to protect them from wolves and snow leopards



What a place for living



Direction down the valley



A view back from where we came













River crossing once again



A small rest of Pamir mountain forests



The meteorological station



Tea time with the men of the station





Preparing our dinner





This where the sauna gets heated



The sauna entrance



The actual sauna. So good. The russians know there job



The instruments



Translation





Your room for a month.. No Telephone, no internet, no television!!

[thedutch]

Day 12

What a beautiful start from Zarojkul lake.
Very cold due too a fierce wind but the lake with it’s surrounding mountains and the early morning sun were of rare beauty and compensated the cold.
The walk took as past various lakes and the landscape with it’s baren mountains and glaciers were a joy to the eye.
Early afternoon we arrived at a shepherd camp where we were welcomed with tea and fresh bread.
Late afternoon a sheep was slaughtered for us and we had a delicious meal.
How blessed we are to enjoy and experience all of this.


Imagine waking up with this view







Yep it was cold 🥶









Amazing and nothing more to say





Break at a deserted shepherd camp





The shepherd camp down at the green



Tajik hospitality, tea, bread and fresh yoghurt







The kitchen entrance



Who knows how yoghurt is made?



The kitchen





Our dinner. Definitely I am not a vegetarian



The flock coming home for the night

[thedutch]

Day 11

A funny night with yaks visiting my tent.
Nothing to be afraid of but still quite a thing when opening my tent for a pee and a yak looks me straight in the eye.
The following morning the hike went high up the valley crossing a big moraine till we reached the Tsaxinkul lake.
What a beautiful sight the turquoise color of the water with the glaciers in the background.
After a river crossing we climbed some more till we reached the saddle or pass at 4580-meter with a fantastic view of Zarojkul lake.
What a place to be. Truly Tajikistan has a lot of beauty to offer!
We prepared our food as the sun was going down and it got really cold straight away. The only thing was to slip into our sleeping bags as fast as possible.



Looking towards the direction we are going



Looking back from where we came





Wauw amazing is probably what Nasrullo is thinking









Tsaxinkul lake at 4300 meters









Crossing a river once again









Next lake at about 4450 meters



Coming down a saddle with such a view… How lucky to be here







Finally we reach lake Zaroshkul at roughly 4500


What a camping spot

[berniehh]

Impressive landscape. The area is on my list.

[thedutch]

Hi, my friend!

Thanks for your travelogue with all the many photos! Respectable!

I've been at 5000m or higher six times and consider myself fairly fit. NEVER, though, did I carry even nearly as much gear as I see you and your mates carry in such altitudes. You have my admiration for your stamina.

We will read more from you, I'm sure...

Thanks for the comment.
Will do my best to add the next 10 days of the hike asap.
cheers

[OutofSaigon]

Hi, my friend!

Thanks for your travelogue with all the many photos! Respectable!

I've been at 5000m or higher six times and consider myself fairly fit. NEVER, though, did I carry even nearly as much gear as I see you and your mates carry in such altitudes. You have my admiration for your stamina.

We will read more from you, I'm sure...

[chri1]

This brings back nice memories too for us.
We hiked in the Pamir in 2014 from Vanj valley to Wrang. I always wanted to write a report, but as 1 week of hiking in Georgia took me a year, I'm happy that you establish a well illustrated report, nice photos!

[thedutch]

Wow Looking forward to the continuation!
(And pretty cool guys, going on a 5000m-pass right on the third day!)

We closely monitored each other and would have turned around in case of altitude sickness.

[transient73]

This brings back memories.
It captures my impression of the landscape perfectly.
Wonderful pictures, thank you.

[Flachlandtiroler]

Wow Looking forward to the continuation!
(And pretty cool guys, going on a 5000m-pass right on the third day!)

[thedutch]

This summer it would be Tajikistan for a bit of a longer walk through the Pamir mountain range.
This “expedition” could be done by one self but I thought it to be smarter to join a team.
The team: David from USA , Jerome from Ireland , Claire from UK and Nasrullo from Tajikistan.
Roughly it was a 370 km hike divided in 4 stretches. After every stretch we organized a food resupply. Hiking start was from Vrang village on the Tajikistan border with Afghanistan from where we hiked north direction Kyrgyzstan border.
The planned hike took us about 32/33 days including a rest day every now and then.
We crossed passes up to 5000 meters a couple of glaciers and quite a few rivers.
Some parts of the hike were pretty remote and not always easy. In the end we were all happy that we made it without any serious injuries or accidents.
Nasrullo from Tajikistan was guide, interpreter, logistical expert all in one. He knew the first two stretches but the rest was terra nova.
Enjoy the reading.

Day 0

This day was spent for an acclimatization hike.
To avoid altitude sickness it is always a good thing to hike up high and sleep low.
The altitude of Vrang is about 2900 meters.
The hike was just beautiful. First interesting sight was that we passed an old buddhist stupa. The rest was hiking up a huge gorge.
But I think best was the start of the day as the hostess of our homestay prepared a very nice breakfast.


Buddhist stupa overlooking the Panj valley with Afghanistan on the other river side




Up this gorge just for acclimatization?




On our way back to our homestay down the same gorge as we came up




View towards the Afghan Hindu Kush



Day 1

Start of the trek from Vrang village.
Full day of steep accent.
At the end of the day the crossing of glacier stream coming down from Karl Marx peak wasn’t possible due to high water level so we decided to camp.
Next morning the crossing was possible without even having to take off our shoes.


Final picture with our hosts before leaving our homestay for the Pamir crossing





The first climb and many more to come




Lots of rocks for the days to come




Nice climb to get used to the altitude




Little break




The direction we are heading




Big packs that need to be carried up the first 5000 meter pass




Camp number 1. Just below the tents the glacial river that couldn’t be crossed late afternoon




Day 2

Early start and easy crossing of the river that could not be crossed yesterday.
Bit of an easy day as Jerome wasn’t feeling well due to stomach issues.
We camped at a deserted shepherd campsite.
Camping altitude at 4150 meter. Spectacular sight on a massive rock-face just in front of us.


Happy after the second river crossing of the day.




Sadly Ibex are killed for meat. Illegal but no one to enforce the law








All the streams need to be crossed. Sometimes jumping from stone to stone but a lot of times shoes have to come off






Many streams have to be crossed mostly multiple times. No bridges!




Camping at a deserted shepherd camp at 4150 meters




What a rock face, for sure never been climbed




Day 3

Day of crossing Vrang pass at 5000 meters. Pretty nice weather with great views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.
The last bit to the top was pretty steep with lots of scree and we could really feel the altitude. Crossing the pass meant we had to traverse a glacier on the other side of the pass.
After the crossing came a huge moraine but after the long descent we walked into a lovely valley with great views in all directions.
We enjoyed a nice late afternoon around a jak dung fire, far away we saw ibex on a ridge.


Hiking up towards the pass




Magic




Life is beautiful




The landscape is pretty barren but every now and then flowers pop up






A lot of riverbed walking




Check out that massive glacier




Still time for a smile






Scree slopes that need full concentration






On top of Vrang pass at exactly 5000 meters




Coming down the glacier






The huge moraine




Vrang pass and the glacier we came down




Finally the valley




What a camping spot. Vrang pass in the background




Yak dung fire, imagine the smell




Day 4

A cold night with night frost but a lovely morning start with the sunlight on the surrounding peaks.
The campground was just one of a kind.
A long walk down the valley with a tea stop at a local shepherd.
In Rubot village we were welcomed at a local homestay. We played a game of volleyball with the girls of our hosts and had some good laughs although none of us could speak a mutual language.
After a fabulous dinner our host played local music.


What a beautiful morning




A long walk down the valley




Vrang pass in the background




Tajik edelweiss




Imagine that boulder bouncing down






The shepherd dog. The people in the Pamirs cut the ears so that wolves have less skin to bite into and eventually kill the dog




First sign of civilization






The green below is Rubot village






The resting backpacks at our homestay




What a treat to take off our shoes




Day 5

This day became a rest day as Jerome got sick that night and had serious diarrhea.
Luckily Claire had antibiotics so we could treat the poor guy. He slept most of the day as we went for a walk to the local shop (beer and cookies) and played some volleyball.
The hostess of the homestay was lovely and took great care of sick Jerome.
Our meals that she served were a real treat.


Rubot (total of about 15/20 households)




The neatly organized village shop




Must be a very hard life in the winter at 3300 meters




No bakery so here is where you bake your bread




Cooking the old fashioned way




Our homestay




Day 6

Jerome felt a lot better as the antibiotics did their job. Together we decided that it would be better for him to take another rest day so that he could retain his strength.
We just did a bit of nothing and enjoyed a nap, great food, lots of tea and beer.





Day 7

Left Rubot after a lovely goodbye from our hosts. It was a rather easy walk as most of the trail went more or less gently up a valley.
The last bit was up through a dry and arid landscape. Camping was next to a stream not too far away from the pass at approximately 4000 meters.


The family that hosted us




The start of our hike




Looking back from where we came




Arid landscape




On the left a deserted shepherd camp




Where there is water everything turns green




Nature can be fascinating




Crain for the shepherds?






No need to take off shoes




End of the day, you may take them off




What a beautiful camping spot. But as soon as the sun went down the thermometer dropped below freezing




Day 8

After a really freezing morning start with no sun we finally got to the side of the mountain with sun.. What a treat! The views back from Duzakh pass at 4399 meters were incredible, we could see Vrang pass but also the 6000-meter mountains Karl Marx and Engels. Big part of the hike down went through a wide and green valley with their barren mountain flanks.
The day ended at a shepherd shelter where we were invited for tea. Such warm hospitality from the Tajik people that have so little but share all.


That morning we met shepherds that were leading their cows to their grazing




Marx or Engels???




Just amazing




Lunch break on top of Duzakh pass at 4399 meter




The direction we are going






What a wild landscape




What do they eat?




Camping with a hungry cow




Day 9

After a nice cup of fresh goat milk tea at the shepherds hut we walked down the gorge to Duzakhdara village.
A friend of our guide Nasrullo picked us up (phone connection) with his Toyota Landcruiser and drove us to Varshez on the Pamir highway. We stopped at the local shop and were happy to buy a few cold beers.
After a bit of internet connection that made some of us really happy we continued to our homestay in the hamlet of Bachor.
Check out the homestay bathroom in the fotos! It kind of puts one back on earth with the kind of luxury life we have at home.


Nasrullo, the shepherd and his sons




Looking back from where we came




Looking direction where we are heading




No words needed for a view like this




Trail on the right side






The first sign of civilization








Perfect timing our car is there




The village shop




Shower house of our homestay in Bachor




The actual do it yourself shower




Harvest time




Our homestay




Our bed for the night




The toilet. Make sure your flashlight works when you go out at night




Day 10

Said goodbye to the friendly couple of the homestay in Bachor. Lovely easy walking out of Bachor crossing two very dodgy suspension bridges.
We walked up the lush and pretty green Andaravay valley.
It was just another of these beautiful days..
Nice late afternoon with a river wash..
Probably a cold night at 3750-meter altitude.
I had a yak visit at in the middle of the night. Some noise so I opened my tent a looked a yak straight in the eyes.



A goodbye photo with our hosts





First part was a easy walk through Bachor village





Who wants to take the first turn?







Looking back at Bachor





The start of Andaravay valley





Nasrullos brother in law joined us with his donkey and took some of our food









Checking out the best place to cross the river





Looking back from where we came





Time for a break




Yaks not far from our campsite




Camp at roughly 3750 meters… Another cold night with yaks visiting