[FR, CH] Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

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  • thedutch
    Gerne im Forum
    • 20.11.2018
    • 55

    • Meine Reisen

    [FR, CH] Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

    Tourentyp
    Lat
    Lon
    Mitreisende
    Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt September 2020

    As Corona made it impossible for me to fly around the globe I decided to do a hike a little closer to home.
    I have known about the Haute Route hike quite some time and had it on my “I would like to do” list.
    So after sorting out a few things the decision was made to go for it.
    I packed my backpack with the minimum I could and the lightest tents of many as the weather forecast for the next two weeks looked very good.
    10 days of food (5kg) should be enough as I planned on sleeping and eating in a mountain hut every now and then.

    I drove down to Martigny/Switzerland and parked my car on a free parking lot and from there took the train to Chamonix.




    Little unprofessional map of the hike....Sorry!


    Day 1-After a last good cup of coffee and a good French croissant I started my hike an walked towards the first and most easy pass on the tour; the col de Balme.
    The first bit of a hike like this Is always the worst as you are walking out of a town with an overloaded backpack and people staring at you an probably thinking where is this freak heading to.
    Having a look over my shoulder was well worth the effort as most of the time Mont Blanc could be seen without a cloud in the sky.
    Late in the afternoon I pinched my tent just below the col de Balme and had a beautiful view of Mont Blanc from my tent.



    Camping below col de Balme with Mont Blanc


    Day 2-After a cold freezing start I quickly reached col de Balme with the first rays of sun warming me up.
    The first part of the trail was kind of easy as it stayed more or less on the same altitude before it went all the way down to a place called la Grande where a nice hut served cold drinks and great food.
    I was happy to grab a cold beer and a blue berry cake. Yes I know not the ideal combination, but I am a little crazy.
    Main goal for the day was the crossing of the Fenêtre d´Arpette and the wonderful glimpse of the Trient glacier that has sadly retreated a lot in the last decades. After checking out some old pictures it is difficult to lie about climate change (unless you’re President of a certain country).
    The last bit of the pass was tiring as the sun had no mercy on me.
    Views were great in both direction but after a few pictures and a snack I hopped down the boulder filed direction the Arpette alm.
    But I didn´t make it that far as there was a nice spot on the side of the trail were a hiker from Belgium set up camp and I joined in.



    Nice morning with col de Balme in the back



    Somewhere in between so beautiful that I could not do without showing this photo



    Trient glacier, sadly retreating very fast



    My first beer on the hike and definitely not the last



    Myself and the Trient glacier



    Trient glacier seen from the Arpette pass (looking backwards)



    Arpette valley from the pass (looking ahead)


    Day 3-The walk today would be the one less attractive of all. A nice and sunny start and I quickly arrived in the village of lac Champex. Crossing the town the path took me to Sembrancher.
    This was a lovely and easy walk with nice views down the valley but wherever I was traffic could be heard from far. From Sembracher the walk went up to the village of le Châble and parts of the walk were along a road. The biggest yoke of all was that I heard gun shots so I was kind of afraid getting shot by a lost bullet. In the end I saw deer flying through the air on posters. That was when I realized that the whole thing was a shooting range.
    A nice and cold beer trenched my thirst in le Châble and after that I walked up the next mountain side in the blazing sun. Found a great spot to sleep close to the chapel of les Vernays.



    Arpette Valley early in the morning



    I am not that much of a shorts hiker but with weather like this I had no other choice



    Small vilage between lac Champex and Sembrancher



    Postcard Switzerland above le Châble


    Day 4- Up the mountain it went for the next couple of hours till I reached the ski lift of la Chaux. Crazy for me to arrive here smelly and sweaty and see all these tourist (and downhill mountainbikers) for the day hopping out of the ski lifts. Had another beer (yes again) and walked on towards the pass of col Termin with great views of the grand Combin. From here a U-turn and the walk continued towards the next pass col de Louvie. It was almost end of the afternoon as I pinched my tent at the next water source with grand Combin at my feet. After just lying in the sun and enjoying everything I saw an old capricorn with a beautiful set of horns. Later a whole bunch of young ones passed and it was just fascinating to see them climb. I had the feeling of being part of a capricorn documentary!



    Some great view walking up the hill above les Vernays



    Just another great view



    Col Termin



    On my way towards col de Louvie (in the background lake Louvie)



    My campsite after a long day



    No comment



    Bedroom view


    Day 5- I covered three passes in total today. The first two, col de Louvie and col de Prafleuri without meeting anyone. After reaching cabane de Prafleuri I met lots of people that left their cars at the parking lot of the huge dam wall of lac des Dix and went for a two/three hour walk crossing the col de Roux.
    After the pass the hike continued along the lac des Dix. A nice and easy walk with great views in all directions. The last hiking hours of the day took me up towards col de Riedmatten. I found a great camping spot at the mouth of the Chellion glacier though the views were disappointing as it was pretty cloudy.



    Early in the morning with a great sunrise on grand Combin



    View from where I came from on top of col de louvie



    Somewhere inbetween col de Louvie and col de Prafleuri



    La Rosa Blanche from the top of col de Prafleuri



    Looking back towards col de Louvie



    Far away I could see Mont Blanc de Cheilon, not knowing that I would set up camp at the foot of it´s glacier



    Lac des Dix with Mont Blanc de Cheilon at it´s far end



    Wildlife?



    Campsite almost touching the Cheilon glacier


    Day 6- I crossed the pass and walked down towards the small village of Arolla where I arrived at mid-day. I had some great views of Pigne d`Arolla as it was a cloudless day. From Arrola it was a long accent to the cabane de Bertol. This cabane was already closed due to end of season but the “winterraum” was open.
    Although closed, I met up with three other hikers/climbers. We had a nice and cozy evening in the little kitchen and some great views toward all sides of the hut with its spectacular stetting. The big bang was finally my first view of the Matterhorn!



    Climbing up col Riedmatten with view a great view of Mont Blanc de Cheilon.
    Those with a good eye should be able to see the fantastic location of cabane des Dix



    View back towards Arolla



    The last steep part towards the cabane de Bertol. What a place for a hut!



    Cabane de Bertol, what a place to be



    View towards Tête Blanche, my goal for tomorrow



    Slowly the sun is setting, Matterhorns is the most left peak on the photo



    That is the direction where I came from


    Day 7- Together with one of the climbers we made an early start (06:00) to avoid soft snow condition on the glacier towards the afternoon. We climbed the Tête Blanche-3710meters. It would be the highest point on the tour. After a bit of a rest and some great views I continued down the Stockji glacier by myself as the other guy went back to the cabane de Bertol. All in all a great walk with great views in all directions. In areas like this I feel so small and nature so overpowering.
    The crossing of the rubble filled Zmutt glacier seemed to never end and finding my way across it was not always obvious. Finally I crossed it and reached the small path towards the Schönbielhütte.
    The weather was great, Matterhorn in front of me (I could almost touch the mountain) and food looked good on the hut so I decided to stay and enjoy the rest of the day. I met up with some nice people and together we just enjoyed the day and the great views. Even the view out of the toilet was magnificent
    Did you ever sit on a toilet with the door open and have the Matterhorn in full view?



    Early morning while the sun slowly rises



    My fellow climber in the background



    Almost made it to the top of Tête Blanche, Dente Blanche in full view far away



    The top with Mont Blanc beside my head



    Das "Gipfelkreuz" with left the Matterhorn and right Dent d`Herens



    Walking down the Stockji glacier



    View back up the glacier



    Matterhorn, can you be any closer?



    Walking on Stockji towards the Schönbielhütte.
    Basically everything you see on the lower right is boulder coverd glacier!



    Finally the Schönbielhütte



    With this view of Matterhorn and a glass of wine I decided the rest of the day is holiday


    Day 8- A easy and late start towards Zermatt on another cloudless day. The first part on top of the Zmutt moraine and from there through lovely alpine landscape with views of the Matterhorn most of the times.
    I crossed Zermatt and felt a bit lost with my equipment passing expensive stores and fancy tourist.
    At the end of town I found a supermarket and bought some fruits. Ate them all at once and continued up the mountain towards a place called Patrullarve where I hoped to connect with the Europa weg.
    The first part of the Europa weg was not that great as a new ski slope was being built and helicopter flying in building material really disturbed the silence, not to talk about the raped landscape. But how am I to judge about this? I passed the small village of Täschalp, which is the starting point for climbing the Rimpfishhorn. I started looking for a camping place and found one with great views of Matterhorn just in front of me. On both sides I had views of Rimpfishhorn and Weisshorn..Life is great!



    Early in the morning everybody has to go .......This is the setting of the Schönbiel toilet



    If you decide to go for it with the door open this is what I call a"room" with a view!



    Looking back at the Schönbielhütte



    No comment as we have al seen the postcards before







    Looking down at Zermatt with Matterhorn in view



    Camping close to Täschalp with Matterhorn in sight



    This is what it is all about


    Day 9-Continued the walk on the Europa weg. Crossed the longest suspension bridge in Europe with 494meters and shortly after had a nice lunch at the Europa hütte with a nice and cold a beer!
    Because of rock fall, the last part of the Europa weg is closed. I had to take the long decent to Herbriggen (roughly 2200meters). From there I had to follow a side road to St. Niklas.
    I kind of had my mind set at sleeping in a hotel this night but I think the devil found out about my plans and made sure that the two hotels in St Niklas were fully booked!
    Poor me, I had to walk on and find a space for my tent somewhere in the woods above St. Niklas.



    Along the Europa weg





    She is still there for you to enjoy



    The longest suspension bridge in Europe with 494meters


    Day 10- First thing i n the morning was a accent to Jungu. What a beautiful little village on the side of a slope. It was almost as if time had stood still here, nothing else as wooden house and no cars. Unbelievable that we still have places like this in our modern European world.
    The walk up to the Augstbord pass was easy (or is it my mental state that made me think this?).
    I met two nice Swiss guys here that would more or less accompany me the next two days to come.
    From the pass it was a nice and beautiful walk down in to the Turtmann valley. This valley has not a lot of infrastructure and no ski lifts, so with a bit of imagination this is how lots of valley must have looked like before tourist industry set of.
    That afternoon I had a beer on the terrace of hotel Schwarzhorn in Gruben. After a while the Swiss guys I met on the Augstbord pass dropped in. We had such a good time together that I decided to ask if the Hotel had a room for me. They did. We had a great night with good food and for me, the first hot shower since I left home!!!!!



    Postcard house in Jungu



    Jungu village



    A place called Sparru, seated like an eagles nest



    Augstbord pass looking towards col de Forcletta on the other side of the Turtmann valley


    Day 11-Today I thought of an easy day but it worked out a little different, it would be the longest day of the hike. The start was a nice and gentle one and it was just great to walk up to the pass in a flow that made me feel like reaching nirvana. The views up the valley towards the Turtmann glacier and the peaks of Bishorn, Weisshorn and Tête de Milon were almost surreal.
    From the Col de Forcletta it went down to the town of Zinal. As you see I the word Col is being used again which means that I am back in the French speaking part of Switzerland. In Zinal I met up with the Swiss guys, by the way their names were Michael and Roger.. The Sun was shining on the terrace they sat so I decided to go for another beer. As it was still early in the afternoon I decided to push on towards the col de Sorebois. It was a long day as I had to push on to find a camping spot with water. But it was rewarded with great views of the Bishorn and Weisshorn peaks.



    Early morning the local farmers bringing their sheep down for the winter



    Upper Turtmann valley with a great view of Weisshorn



    No selfi for today but just my backpack on col de la Forcletta



    Walking down towards Zinal. The colors are changing, autum is on it way



    Camping close to col Sorebois. Far away the peaks of Bishorn and Weisshorn


    Day 12-This would be the final day of the hike. As always it is nice to finish a hike and think about my own bed but on the other side finishing means back in to the rat race.
    Nö don´t think too much that’s just the way it is!
    It was a quick walk up the col de Sorebois and I met up with Michael and Roger on route. We had a bit of breakfast at small restaurant at the lac de Moiry. We had to wait a little bit as we arrived before opening time. Anyhow after breakfast we walked up to col de Torrent. Views down on lac Moiry were almost surreal because of the greenish color of the lake.
    Had a great experience; almost in touching distance a bearded vulture passed. It all went so fast that no time to grab my camera. But never mind it is all stored in my mind!
    From the top of the pass it went down for about 1600 meters to Evolêne.
    It was great to look up the valley and see Arolla far away and all the big peaks that I passed on the day that I climbed Tête Blanche.
    We had Lunch in Evolêne which actually is a nice village worth a visit.
    After that we drove back to civilization with the Swiss Postbus.
    A quick good bye between me and the boys on the Sion train station and I was by myself again.
    I took the train to Martigny and from there walked to my car, had a quick wash and then drove home day dreaming of a nice and hot shower!



    Col de Sorebois is where I need to go!



    The color of lac de Moiry is almost unreal



    Finally my last pass (col de Torrent) on this hike togther with the Swiss guys



    A great view up the valley coming down from col de Torrent.
    In the upper part of the right valley lies Arolla



    Switzerland is definitely a beautiful country
    In the far end of the center, the area were I crossed from Bertol to Schönbiel





    Villa Evolêne


    Conclusion: great hike with beautiful views of all the mayor peaks in Valais (Wallis). Keep in mind if you would like to do this hike you won´t be the only one on the trail. The first two days of the hike are quite busy as the Trail du Mont Blanc covers the same part.
    The crossing from Cabane de Bertol to the Schönbielhütte is not part of the Haute Route as described in the guide books. Do not do this route without experience and full mountaineering equipment. Even better would be to do it with a guide.
    Switzerland is not cheap; prices for SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) huts are roughly double of what you would pay in Austria or Germany.
    I really enjoyed the hike and can really recommend it.
    By the way I do read and write German but English is so more easy for me. So any comments or questions in German are most welcome.
    Zuletzt geändert von thedutch; 01.07.2021, 11:15.

  • Meer Berge
    Fuchs
    • 10.07.2008
    • 2351

    • Meine Reisen

    #2
    AW: Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

    For this moment I´ve got no time but to have a glimpse at the pictures - and I so much enjoyed them!
    Must have been a fantastic tour!

    Thanks for sharing!

    Kommentar


    • opa
      Lebt im Forum
      • 21.07.2004
      • 5786

      • Meine Reisen

      #3
      AW: Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

      very nice!

      Kommentar


      • geige284
        Dauerbesucher
        • 11.10.2014
        • 825

        • Meine Reisen

        #4
        AW: Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

        Beautiful!
        I also just flipped through the pictures - stunning

        The Walker's Haute Raute is also on my wish list for the upcoming years... Thanks for the report!

        Kommentar


        • SiSler
          Erfahren
          • 16.12.2013
          • 138

          • Meine Reisen

          #5
          AW: Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

          ... thanks a lot for sharing your impressions in text and the great photos. The WHR is on my wishlist for quite some time, one day I will start it, too
          “I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out ... for going out, I found, was really going in”
          (John Muir)

          Kommentar


          • Wafer

            Lebt im Forum
            • 06.03.2011
            • 6079

            • Meine Reisen

            #6
            AW: Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

            Hy TheDutch

            Great Pictures of a beautiful region! Thank you for sharing your impressions with us! Maybe when I get younger again ...

            Kind regards

            Wafer

            Kommentar


            • basstardo
              Erfahren
              • 04.12.2013
              • 255

              • Meine Reisen

              #7
              AW: Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

              Thanks for sharing your pictures and impressions with us. I hope I can hike the WHR in 2021 too. I hike some parts in the Simplon Area, which I can also highly recommend.
              :: FlickR ::
              :: Stein am Rhein nach Cuxhaven ::

              Kommentar


              • thedutch
                Gerne im Forum
                • 20.11.2018
                • 55

                • Meine Reisen

                #8
                AW: Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

                Hi everybody,
                thanks for the great comments.
                I think that is what it is all about; sharing
                By the way Wafer I met a "older" man on the trail his age was 82...So never say never.

                happy day for everyone

                Kommentar


                • Flachlandtiroler
                  Freak
                  Moderator
                  Liebt das Forum
                  • 14.03.2003
                  • 25207

                  • Meine Reisen

                  #9
                  AW: Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

                  Erstmal: Schöne Tour, schöne Bilder -- danke für den Bericht
                  Die Täler und Berge sind alle wohlbekannt, eine Tour in so einer Form bei mir über zwanzig Jahre her... witzig zu sehen, dass Du teilweise in etwa an den gleichen Stellen gezeltet hast

                  Zitat von thedutch Beitrag anzeigen
                  The crossing from Cabane de Bertol to the Schönbielhütte is not part of the Haute Route as described in the guide books. Do not do this route without experience and full mountaineering equipment. Even better would be to do it with a guide.
                  IMHO sollte es vor allem heißen: "Do not do this route alone and without rope!"
                  War die Gletscherquerung bereits soweit ausgeapert, dass man da unangeseilt gehen konnte? Kann ich mir -auch anhand der Bilder- eigentlich nicht vorstellen. Die Gletscher beidseitig der Tete Blanche habe ich als stark verspaltet in Erinnerung. Wie verlief Deine Entscheidungsfindung da?
                  Meine Reisen (Karte)

                  Kommentar


                  • thedutch
                    Gerne im Forum
                    • 20.11.2018
                    • 55

                    • Meine Reisen

                    #10
                    AW: Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

                    Zitat von Flachlandtiroler Beitrag anzeigen
                    Erstmal: Schöne Tour, schöne Bilder -- danke für den Bericht
                    Die Täler und Berge sind alle wohlbekannt, eine Tour in so einer Form bei mir über zwanzig Jahre her... witzig zu sehen, dass Du teilweise in etwa an den gleichen Stellen gezeltet hast


                    IMHO sollte es vor allem heißen: "Do not do this route alone and without rope!"
                    War die Gletscherquerung bereits soweit ausgeapert, dass man da unangeseilt gehen konnte? Kann ich mir -auch anhand der Bilder- eigentlich nicht vorstellen. Die Gletscher beidseitig der Tete Blanche habe ich als stark verspaltet in Erinnerung. Wie verlief Deine Entscheidungsfindung da?
                    "Do not do this route alone and without rope!" Ja das stimmt könnte man auch so formulieren.

                    Der Gletscher ist nur im untere Bereich aper.

                    Meine Entscheidung; umzudrehen wenn nötig.

                    Kommentar


                    • Franky66
                      Dauerbesucher
                      • 07.09.2013
                      • 854

                      • Meine Reisen

                      #11
                      AW: [FR, CH] Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

                      Thank you very much for sharing, thedutch- great pictures, beautyful places to be


                      Best regards to stay healthy

                      Franky
                      Bemerke, höre, schweige. Urteile wenig, frage viel.

                      Kommentar


                      • Flachlandtiroler
                        Freak
                        Moderator
                        Liebt das Forum
                        • 14.03.2003
                        • 25207

                        • Meine Reisen

                        #12
                        AW: Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

                        Zitat von thedutch Beitrag anzeigen
                        Der Gletscher ist nur im untere Bereich aper.

                        Meine Entscheidung; umzudrehen wenn nötig.
                        D.h. vor einem verschneiten, verspalteten Gletscher umzudrehen hieltest Du nicht für nötig?

                        Ich erinnere noch recht genau, dass wir von der Zermatter Seite auf die Tete Blanche sind, und dabei im Aufstieg wie im Abstieg im Bereich über dem Col mehrfach (!) Spaltensacker hatten. Ohne Seil absolute No-Go-Zone...
                        Der untere Teil des Stokjigletschers dürfte ja mittlerweile aper sein, die Trasse von der Bertolhütte über das Plateau Herens vielleicht verführerisch breit gespurt sein. Aber zur Tete Blanche?
                        Meine Reisen (Karte)

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                        • thedutch
                          Gerne im Forum
                          • 20.11.2018
                          • 55

                          • Meine Reisen

                          #13
                          AW: [FR, CH] Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

                          Hallo Flachlandtiroler,
                          ich wurde es gerne dabei belassen.
                          Wieso und weshalb ich bestimmt Entscheidungen treffe haben für mich hier im Forum nichts verloren.
                          Ich wollte einfach jedermann an diesen Tour teilhaben lassen und habe deshalb den Bericht und den Fotos veröffentlicht.
                          Wenn du möchtest können wir über private Mail Account weiter kommunizieren.
                          Gruss aus dem Odenwald (ist auch ein bisschen flach)

                          Kommentar


                          • Ljungdalen
                            Fuchs
                            • 28.08.2017
                            • 1915

                            • Meine Reisen

                            #14
                            AW: [FR, CH] Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

                            Zitat von thedutch Beitrag anzeigen
                            Wieso und weshalb ich bestimmt Entscheidungen treffe haben für mich hier im Forum nichts verloren.
                            Amen. No "risk" no fun.

                            Vielen Dank für den Bericht. Einen Teil der Route hatte ich als Alternative zu Schweden tatsächlich für diesen Sommer/Frühherbst auch schon in Betracht gezogen, für den Fall einer kritischen Entwicklung in Schweden, was dann aber glücklicherweise nicht der Fall war. Und auch mit abschnittsweisen Abweichungen von der "Standardroute" in noch höhere Gefilde bzw. Gletscher.

                            Wenn ich das irgendwann (bald?!) tatsächlich mache, werde ich diesen Bericht hier im Hinterkopf haben...

                            Kommentar


                            • Vogelfreund
                              Erfahren
                              • 04.08.2008
                              • 142

                              • Meine Reisen

                              #15
                              AW: [FR, CH] Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

                              Gletscher haben Spalten, Löcher ... vieles geht gut. Immer nicht. Gletscher-Roulette.

                              Doch wie war das mit dem Zelten in der Wildnis? Geplant ist das im dortigen Kanton mitnichten erlaubt! Machten das mehr, gar viele, es würde zu Problemen führen. Die Jäger & Schäfer da sind eh gerad stinkig, weil die ihre schießfreundliche Gesetzgebung per Volksabstimmung nicht durchbekamen ... wegen all der Städter.

                              *Spassverderber*

                              Kommentar


                              • thedutch
                                Gerne im Forum
                                • 20.11.2018
                                • 55

                                • Meine Reisen

                                #16
                                AW: [FR, CH] Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

                                Zitat von Vogelfreund Beitrag anzeigen
                                Gletscher haben Spalten, Löcher ... vieles geht gut. Immer nicht. Gletscher-Roulette.

                                Doch wie war das mit dem Zelten in der Wildnis? Geplant ist das im dortigen Kanton mitnichten erlaubt! Machten das mehr, gar viele, es würde zu Problemen führen. Die Jäger & Schäfer da sind eh gerad stinkig, weil die ihre schießfreundliche Gesetzgebung per Volksabstimmung nicht durchbekamen ... wegen all der Städter.

                                *Spassverderber*
                                Zu dem Gletscher war das Amen ausgesprochen!

                                Zelten in der Wildnis? Einfach gegen Abend das Zelt aufbauen und morgens wieder einpacken. Nach dem Moto leave nothing but footprints!
                                Tja; als Erwachsener sollte man nicht mit dem Fahrrad auf dem Gehweg fahren aber sehr viele Tun es. Man soll sich nur nicht erwischen lassen und wenn es dann mal schiefgeht geht die Welt auch nicht unter.
                                In den viele Hiking Jahren wurde ich nur ein mal von ein Förster "erwischt" nach der Erklärung warum, wie ,wo, was war alles OK und er hat mir ein gute Nacht gewünscht.

                                Kommentar


                                • berniehh
                                  Fuchs
                                  • 31.01.2011
                                  • 1936

                                  • Meine Reisen

                                  #17
                                  AW: [FR, CH] Haute Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt 2020

                                  super Fotos
                                  Die Route von Chamonix nach Zermatt geistert auch schon seit Ewigkeiten in meinem Hinterkopf rum.
                                  www.trekking.magix.net

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