[TJ] Tadschikistan Pamir Durchquerung 2024

[thedutch]

Day 18

We basically hiked up moraines and a big glacier below the Lapnazar summit all day on our was towards the Khurjin pass.
As we figured that we could not make it over the pass in time we decided to drop our bags and go for a closer look.
In the end the decision was made that we would not continue this part of the trek.
There were to many unknowns ahead of us. The one that weighed most was the part of river crossings but also unknown glaciers ahead and a big snow/ice cornice seen on the top of the pass.
We camped at 4200 meters and the next day we went down via the same route.
Roughly 10 days later we got information that two skilled english guys tried the same route and set of a rescue signal via their inreach and were rescued by the Tajik military.

What a great wall of mountains. Most between 6000 and 6800 meters


Instead of heading up the wall of mountains we turned left up a spectacular side valley


One last glimpse


Up the moraine. Many times it wasn’t clear if we were walking the moraine or the glacier


A short brake next to a glacial lake



Looking back


Lapnazar behind us


Last view towards the pass hidden around the right corner. Forgot to take my camera,no pictures from the pass itself.


What a spot.. Cold but worth it

[Spartaner]

Ist das eines von euren Zelten da auf dem Dach?

[thedutch]

Ich glaube es ist ein Kochtopf ähnlich oder gleich wie in den vorherigen Bildern wo Marmelade gekocht wird. Von uns hat nur Claire einmal im Garten gezeltet weil zu viele Schnaken im Homestay Zimmer waren.

[thedutch]

Day 19

After the yesterday decision of turning back we spent a big part of the day walking back the same route as we came.
We found the footprint of a snow leopard but no sign of the cat.
Via satellite garmin inreach a message was sent to pick us up at the end of the trail.
It worked and after a bumpy ride we ended up in the village of Savnob in a lovely homestay.


Coming down a cliff just as we left our campsite



Campsite was on top of the cliff





The print of a snowleopard



Finally we leave the moraine and walk down and then right into the valley that takes us down



One last view up towards Khurjin pass. The pass itself is hidden on the right side












We have to cross the glacial stream once again directly at the mouth of the glacier



Nasrullo did the impossible by arranging a jeep for pick up



Our homestay for the next two days. Although the pick up from the mountain was almost a mystery further transportation was not possible for the following day. The villages in the upper Pamir valleys are very remote with no official public transportation at all



That is how the Tajiks wash their vegetables

[berniehh]

Schade daß es mit dem Khurjin pass nicht geklappt hat. Ist Eure Tour jetzt zuende oder geht es noch weiter?
Darf man mal fragen was so ein Jeep-pick-up ungefähr kostet?
Welche (preiswerteren) Alternativen hätte man sonst?

[thedutch]

Schade daß es mit dem Khurjin pass nicht geklappt hat. Ist Eure Tour jetzt zuende oder geht es noch weiter?
Darf man mal fragen was so ein Jeep-pick-up ungefähr kostet?
Welche (preiswerteren) Alternativen hätte man sonst?

Hi, tour geht weiter aber auf ein etwas andere route. Müssen also Stückchen fahren um am neuen Startpunkt anzukommen.
Wenn ein Jeep nur von uns gemietet wurde etwa 0,70/0,80€ pro kilometer.
Alternative sind warten bis die einheimischen wo hinfahren. Es gibt je nach Dorf größe immer Leute die ein Fahrzeug haben. Allerdings wird nur gefahren wenn jemand wohin muss und das Fahrzeug voll ist. Gleiche system wie auf der ganze Welt wo es kein public transport gibt.
Gruss

[thedutch]

Day 20

As there were no jeeps there was no way of leaving Savnob for our next destination.
Maybe the blue 🚎 ? 🤨
Only thing to do was to hangout and go for a village walk. Interesting to see the village life and people preparing for winter.
At the end of the day the women would pass our homestay to go and milk the goats.
Where in our modern society you see that?


Maybe our transportation



The setting of our homestay



Cow dung for the winter







The Bartang river far below



Day 21

Because of the turning back on Khurjin pass we had to look for an alternative route to cross the mountain range.
Our choice was the Odudi pass with a start from Rushan.
The 130km route from Savnob to Rushan in a Toyota landcruiser took us almost 7 hours!!!!
We stayed at the only homestay in Rushan.



Preparing for the ride to Rushan



Leaving Savnob



Not of this world



The Bartang river at this point very wide



Imagine a brake failure



Pipi time





Just stunning all the time



Not far before we reach Rushan