Alpenüberquerung L1 (Garmisch-Brescia)



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  • thedutch
    Gerne im Forum
    • 20.11.2018
    • 61

    • Meine Reisen

    Alpenüberquerung L1 (Garmisch-Brescia)

    This summer I crossed the Alps and walked from Garmisch Patenkirchen to Brescia in Italy.
    Total distance was round about 400km.
    I was not so lucky with the weather for the first part of the hike but the further I walked into Italy the better the weather.
    Just have a look at the pictures and enjoy.

    Day No.1- Garmisch Patenkirchen to the Kreuzeckhaus

    After leaving Garmisch and heading up the mountains, I had the great feeling that holiday had started. It was pretty hot and humid and it did not take long for a rain shower with a bit of thunder and lightning to try and spoil my day. Well my mood was so good that the weather gods didn´t stand a chance. I took shelter under the roof of the Trögel Hütte and continued when it all was over.

    The view after leaving Garmisch

    Day No.2- Kreuzeckhaus to Knorr Hütte

    Walking down towards Partnach valley was lovely and I was surprised to meet no one. The Partnach valley itself is just beautiful and is one of the places that you are not sure if this is really Germany. Especially the upper part of the valley with wonderful views were I came from are well worth the walk. After my first beer at the Knorrhütte I decided it was enough for the day and just enjoyed another beer and some good food.

    Beautiful Reintalanger. Yes this is Germany

    Day No.3- Knorr Hütte to Inntal (border crossing Germany/Austria)

    A bit cold in the morning but after the sun came out it became a great day with almost no clouds and lots of sun. After a short hour walk, I crossed the border into Austria and felt privileged for living in this part of the world where you can cross borders without anybody checking. No hassle, no visas or special permits. Do all of us realize how lucky we are?
    Anyhow, it was an easy walk down the Tillfussalm from where it went up for the next pass to go down towards the wide Inntal valley.

    The Knorr Hütte early in the morning

    View towards the nieder munde pass

    The stream Leutascher Ache not far from the Tillfussalm

    View from the nieder munde pass in the direction from where I came on the right side of the photo

    The wide Inn Valley

    Walking down into the Inntal it still looks pretty rough

    Day No.4- Inntal to Kühtai

    Yesterday from the top of the pass, it looked like a quick go towards the other side of the valley but it was almost noon until I reached Stams. From now on, it went all the way up to the top of the Pirchkogel. After coming down I found a nice place to pinch my tent and I decided that it was enough for that day.

    Lovely Inn Valley early in the morning

    I spend half the day hiking with Torben and Ties, photo taken close to the top of Pirschkogel

    How beautiful this lake on the way down towards Kühtai

    My camping spot

    Day No.5- Kühtai to Winnebachsee Hütte

    The first bit of the morning walk was still more or less ok. A bit further down I reached the Kühtai area where the landscape is “destroyed” just for the sake of skiing. After reaching the Finstertal reservoir, I was back in gentle alpine landscape again. Slowly the weather changed during the afternoon and it started to rain.
    I reached the Winnebachsee Hütte in the clouds and was happy that they had a place to sleep for me and I could change for dry cloths and dry my wet stuff.

    Next morning, I prefer hiking instead of horse riding

    Kühtai, nice isn´t it?

    On route towards Winnebachsee Hütte as the weather was still ok

    Day No.6- Winnebachsee Hütte to Kaiseralm (Sölden)

    Beautiful day and the it was a joy hiking. Close to the Amberger Hütte a farmer with a cow on the lease stopped me and asked if I could watch a new born calf that almost lay in a fast running stream.
    Why do cows give birth at such a place?
    Anyhow, the farmer came back 10 minutes later with a wheelbarrow and loaded the calf to take it to his “Alm”.
    After the Amberg Hütte it went up towards the Atterkarjöchel. Not the most easy pass on the trail and I can imagine that people with fear of heights could end up being very unhappy.
    After coming down I decided enough for today and I camped near a stream.

    Winnebachsee Hütte early in the morning. Yesterday I almost bumped into the hut as it was barely seen due to rain and fog

    Coming down the valley

    Amberger Hütte

    Above the Amberger Hütte

    Last bit of glacier on my accent to the Atterkarjöchel

    Not everybody’s favorite towards the top of the ridge

    The ridge

    View in direction of Kaiseralm

    Preparing camp

    Day No.7- Kaiseralm (Sölden) to Vent

    This was the only day on the trail that I didn´t really like. Coming down towards Sölden was still ok, but the town itself was more like Disney Land to me. Between Zwieselstein and Vent some parts of the trail are along the road side which include tunnel crossing. Crazy like I am, I decided to do all on foot so there was no other option. I found a nice Pension in Vent and had a great pizza that made me forget all the negative moments along the road.

    No need for comment

    Sölden deep down the valley

    No trespassing

    On my way to Vent

    My old school hotel in Vent

    The hotel itself

    Wauw that was a great fiesta at the end of the day

    Day No.8- Vent to Bellavistahütte (border crossing Austria/Italy)

    Nice early start with an early arrival at the Martin Busch Hütte. After a break, I continued for the highest part on the trail the Seikogel. Great views in all directions towards peaks and glaciers.
    Ötzi the iceman was found not far from here and he crossed my mind quit a view times.
    The last bit was a bit windy and I heard thunder from not too far away so I made a bit of a sprint towards the Bellavista Hütte.

    An early start with great weather

    Martin Busch Hütte in its lovely setting

    Martin Busch Hütte again far down

    Next few pictures are all from accent, top and decent of the Saykogel, the highest point of the whole trail. What will be left over of these glaciers in the next 10/20/30 years?

    Punk is not dead!

    Hiking up the valley towards Hochjoch

    Day No.9- Bad weather resting day at Bella vista Hütte

    Luckily, the bad weather hit me at this spot. What a great hut with a gorgeous kitchen and a special surprise, in the late afternoon the staff heats up a sauna.
    Well I have seen and done a lot but never enjoyed a sauna on 2800 meters.

    The Bella vista Hütte

    My nice liitle room, luxury pure

    Check out the sauna!

    Day No.10- Bella vista Hütte to Schlanders (Süd Tirol)

    This day I passed one of the most amazing lakes ever. Well just, check out the photos.
    After that, it was half a day of decent towards Schlanders. I did not want to spend time looking for a place to stay in Schlanders so I filled up my water and found a great camping spot looking down on Schlanders.

    The Vernagt Stausee

    Where do these colours come from? Isn´t it beautiful? I spent quite some time just staring

    After this lake called dark lake, it was down, down, down towards Schlanders

    My camping spot close to Schlanders

    Day No.11- Schlanders to Zirmbichlalm

    A bit of a rainy day but looking back, it was not that bad, especially the humid smell of forest and alpine meadows was nature at its best.
    Walking up towards the Göflaner alm there were boards showing how the men in this area had been transporting marble down the mountain from the quarries for over the last 150 years. Huge blocks that they moved down with their bare hands, rope and oxen. I was impressed and shocked at the same time. How many of these men died at this brutal job? What an easy life and safe live we have compared to them!
    At the end of the afternoon, the sun came out and I found a nice camping spot.

    Little impression of Süd Tirol

    An even better impression for a hungry hiker

    The weather was not too good that afternoon

    Camping at Zirmbichlalm

    Day No.12- Zirmbichlalm to Martell Hütte

    An easy day of walk but kind of rainy. It would rain for half an hour and after that it would be dry again and then things would repeat. As the view was not very good for a glacier crossing and a just over 3000-meter pass I decided to stay in the Martell Hütte and hope for good weather for tomorrow.

    After a rainy day I arrived at the Martell Hütte

    Day No.13- Martell Hütte to Lago di Pian Palu

    It started with an easy glacier crossing and the accent towards the Fürkel Scharte through some snow that fell last night. All in all nothing special except for the trail finding that was non visible because of the snow. Luckily, I met up with a German guy called Holger on the Hut so we shared our “fear” together. Funny thing that I realized later on was that by crossing this pass we finally left the German speaking part of the Alps and ended up in the Italian only speaking Alps.
    And before I forget to mention it the weather was great and the sun shone all day!! Maybe something to do with the real Italy? Ohhhhh bella Italia
    At the end of the day I decided to camp once more and Holger continued for the next Hut or???
    I would never find out.

    Leaving the Martell Hütte early that morning with snow on the higher regions

    The crossing of a minor glacier on our way to the top of the Fürkler Scharte

    This pass really divides the German/Italian language

    Hiking down the pass with great weather towards the village of Peio

    With a close look you can find rifugio Cevedale on the right side of the photo

    This is what it is all about

    After a long and easy walk down we arrived at the small village of Peio

    Day No.14- Lago di Pian Palu to Ponte di Legno

    It would be an easy walking day with the sun being my friend. By mid-afternoon, I reached Ponte di Legno and found a nice little hotel and enjoyed dolce vita for the rest of the day.

    Lago di Pian Palu

    Looking back from where I came from the Forcellina di Montozzo pass

    First presence of the tragical fighting during the first world war

    I had to go down all the way

    Down on the valley floor lies Ponte Di Legno

    My very very old school hotel in Ponte di Legno

    Dolce vita on the town square

    Day No.15- Ponte di Legno to Rifugio Tonolini

    The first part of the day was not very spectacular as the walk went through a heavy populated valley. After leaving this urban jungle, it went up the mountains again to pass a few reservoirs that would not be the last ones that I would see in Italy. Seems that Italians loved to build reservoirs. Maybe they checked it out years ago that green energy would be the thing!
    After the reservoirs, it went up towards a pass with a lot of boulder hopping and great views.
    At the end of the day, I showed up at Rifugio Tonolini and had a nice cold beer.

    On my way up to the Passo di Premazoni I passed quit a few reservoirs

    Mount Adamello

    Finally the top after a long scramble

    Some great views

    Refugio Tonolini at the end of the day

    Day No.16- Rifugio Tonolini to lago di Avolo

    This would be the longest but also one of the most beautiful days on the trail. I really enjoyed the rough landscape of the Adamello Mountains especially higher up with a feeling of being alone and lost in time. Walking down the Poja valley towards the Rifugio Lissone was a dream.
    I was in such a (hiking) flow that I just continued without realizing that it would be a steep climb up from Rifugio Lissone. Late that evening I pinched my tent close to a little lake at roughly 2500-meters (I will never know the correct altitude because I am one of these old school guys without altimeter). The temperatures were slightly minus that night as all grass was white that morning but it was the best sleeping I had on the whole trail.

    The small but cosy Rifugio Tonolini in the early morning

    Just some nice views along the way

    Rifugio Gnutti (they serve a great espresso)

    The only way is up

    Climbing passo Miller

    Almost did it

    View from passo Miller towards the other side

    Adamello glacier

    Rifugio Prudenzini at the bottom of the valley

    Up the next pass called passo di Poia

    Looking backwards with the Adamello glacier

    This way down please

    The lovely Poia valley

    Last views of Rifugio Lissone

    One of these secret moments

    That is where I came from

    More First World War relicts

    After a long day, I pinched my tent close to this lake

    Day No.17- Lago di Avolo to rifugio Tita Secchi

    Great weather. Nice views. Couldn´t be any better.
    High up in the mountains there are lots of hide outs as left overs of the fighting in these part of the alps during the first world war.
    I have been seeing them since the last couple of days but the area of Tita Secchi is just full of them.
    Here and there, I passed names of men that died during this crazy war. Many of them just boys, 15,16,17,18,19 years old!

    The trail to Rifugio Maria y Franco passes below the snow on the right side of the photo

    Looking back from where I came close to the Rifugio

    Rifugio Maria y Franco with the next pass in the background

    Smiling (because life is good) on top of the Dernal pass with Rifugio Maria y Franco in the far background

    View from the Dernal pass in the direction where the trail leads me

    Looking back towards the Dernal pass roughly in the middle of the horizon

    Remains of the first world war

    Rifugio Tita Secchi

    Day No.18- Rifugio Tita Secchi to bivacco Capanna Tita Secchi

    Slowly the hike is leaving the high Alps and I am entering the foothills of the Alps before they hit the Italian plains. Route finding gets more difficult and more than once, I need to back track.
    Walking up the higher part of the valley of Grigna was just awesome, undisturbed nature all around me.
    At the end of the day, I camped close to the bivacco Capanna Tita Secchi and enjoyed the last rays of sun eating some Italian cheese that I bought from a framer.
    Yes, life can be very very good.

    What a day! As you can see, I am slowly leaving the “high” Alps for the foothills

    Maria everywhere

    Laghi di Ravenola at the point where the Grigna valley opens up

    Farmers milking their cows on the middle of the road close to bivacco Capanna di Tita Secchi. I am sure that these cows have a happy life

    Day No.19- Bivacco Capanna Tita Secchi to Lodrino

    I felt great, the weather was great and the surroundings looked great my inner feeling told me that I had to climb the Corna Blacca. It was a bit of a climb and half way up I thought why did I not take the easy trail?
    However, it was worth every bit of energy that I wasted. That white Mountain, the magnificent views and the almost scary trails on the backside of the mountain.
    I had only one word left over after I did it, great!
    Coming down lower it was slowly getting warm and I was happy to be able to walk in the shade.
    I reached the hamlet of Vaghezza and was more than happy to have a cold beer at the local (only) sportsbar. When I finally reached Lodrino I only wanted to drink a coke…I could barely remember that coke could taste sooooooo good.
    I tried to find a hotel or B&B in lodrino but there was no Hotel and the only B&B was full or didn´t want smelly hikers for one night only so the only thing I could do was cry or carry on.
    I decided the last one was the better option.
    So I camped somewhere in the woods and the only thing I could say was HOT.
    I had to be in the tent otherwise the mosquitos would eat me alive but the deal I made was in a little sticky tent with sweat just pouring out of me. This was definatly the worse night on the trip.
    In the middle of the night, I had to scream to chase the wild pigs from the area.
    Yes, that is what they call adventure…Why don´t you read stuff like that in these fancy looking magazines?

    Sunrise as I just got out of my tent

    My camping spot

    The same view but just before setting of

    Corna Blacca had to be climbed

    Next few pictures during my accent and decent of Corna Blacca

    The village of Lavino

    Street in Lodrino

    Again Lodrino

    My camping spot

    Day No.20- Lodrino to Brescia

    The last day became extremely hot and more than once that day I thought what am I doing here?
    I made a very early start to make sure that I could do the major part of the climb up the first pass with the still moderate morning temperatures. I was shocked by all the cages all along the mountaintops that hunters use to catch migrating birds. I mean, for sure couple of hundred years ago this was an important source of protein for the people of this area. But in our modern times with more and more animals and birds becoming extinct this is a “sport” that should be forbidden.
    Anyhow, it was so hot that I filled up at every water source I could find and every time I did I would start off with about 4 liters of water.
    I hoped to spend my last night as a pilgrim in the monastery of Conche but due to Covid it was closed.
    Therefore, the only thing I could do was continue to Brescia were I arrived early that evening.
    Finally, I could take a shower and change for something not so smelly.
    The only sad thing was that I lost one of my flip flops so I got rid of the other one as well and I had to go town in my hiking boots.

    Sunrise during my early start to try and avoid the heat

    The next three photos show the traps to hunt migrating birds. I knew about this practice but not that it was so common. Very sad that things like this still happen in our modern Europe

    Corna di Sonclino

    Christian (Maria) country

    Please take me with you

    It was so hot and the sun was mercyless

    The hermit of Eremo di San Giogio lived on top of that little hill

    Santuario di Conche sadly it was closed to pilgrims because of Covid so I had to walk on

    Finally after a long and hot day I arrived in Brescia

    Day No.21- Brescia

    During my day off in Brescia I did a bit of touristy sightseeing stuff and tried all the food and ice cream that I could

    My last real Italian pizza

    Day No.22- Journey home by train

    Zuletzt geändert von thedutch; 04.01.2022, 09:19.

  • StefanBoe
    • 14.12.2020
    • 233

    • Meine Reisen

    Great!!! Vielen Dank fürs Mitnehmen. Ich träume von einer ähnlichen Tour von Oberstdorf zum Gardasee ...


    • thedutch
      Gerne im Forum
      • 20.11.2018
      • 61

      • Meine Reisen

      Zitat von StefanBoe Beitrag anzeigen
      Great!!! Vielen Dank fürs Mitnehmen. Ich träume von einer ähnlichen Tour von Oberstdorf zum Gardasee ...
      Stefan danke für dein Lob.
      Zu dein Traum... Schnappe deinen beiden Söhne und los geht es nächsten Sommer!


      • TilmannG
        • 29.10.2013
        • 1167

        • Meine Reisen

        Klasse Tour und tolle Fotos - Danke!


        • qwertzui
          • 17.07.2013
          • 2380

          • Meine Reisen

          Die Zugvögel fallen hätte ich nicht erkannt

          Danke für den schönen Bericht.


          • codenascher

            Alter Hase
            • 30.06.2009
            • 4607

            • Meine Reisen

            Toller Bericht, klasse Bilder! Danke das du dieses hier mit uns teilst.

            Bin im Wald, kann sein das ich mich verspäte

            meine Weltkarte


            • Franke
              Gerne im Forum
              • 30.03.2011
              • 86

              • Meine Reisen

              Schöner Bericht, vielen Dank!
              Btw, das ist doch ein Nordisk Lofoten 1 ULW Zelt? Mich würde interessieren, wie Du mit diesem Zelt zufrieden bist, insbesondere bezogen auf Liegelänge, Platz, Kondensation, Schlechtwettertauglichkeit?


              • thedutch
                Gerne im Forum
                • 20.11.2018
                • 61

                • Meine Reisen

                Zitat von Franke Beitrag anzeigen
                Schöner Bericht, vielen Dank!
                Btw, das ist doch ein Nordisk Lofoten 1 ULW Zelt? Mich würde interessieren, wie Du mit diesem Zelt zufrieden bist, insbesondere bezogen auf Liegelänge, Platz, Kondensation, Schlechtwettertauglichkeit?
                Hallo Franke,
                genau das ist der Lofoten 1 ULW von Nordisk.
                Im grossen und ganzen bin ich echt zufrieden mit dem Zelt.
                Es ist natürlich sehr kleine und ist eigentlich nur zum schlafen geeignet. Ich bin so wie so nicht so ein im Zelt verweiler weil nach ein lange Nacht mein Rücke weh tut und ich auch mit Regen/Schnee einfach aufbreche.
                Es gibt halt kein schlechtes Wetter nur schlechte Klamotten!
                Was die Liegelänge angeht ist die antwort, für mich mit meine 1,83 gerade noch ok aber viellänger sollte man nicht sein. Was ich ein bisschen ein manko finde ist die höhe im Fussbereich, die sehr niedrig ist.
                Was Kondens angeht wurde ich sagen das es nicht besser oder schlechter ist als andere "kleine" Zelten wo der "Fly" bis fast auf den Boden reicht. Ich schlafe viel mit offene eingang wodurch sie das ganze minimiert.
                Für ein schlecht Wetter tour wurde ich mit ein grösseres Zelt unterwegs sein wollen.
                Das ist der Lofoten doch sehr klein.

                Gruss David
                Zuletzt geändert von thedutch; 02.12.2021, 07:30.


                • StefanBoe
                  • 14.12.2020
                  • 233

                  • Meine Reisen

                  Hallo Oranje,
                  ich hätte noch eine Frage zum Übergang Marteller Hütte - Fürkelescharte - Rifugio Larcher: Sind Spalten auf dem Gletscherstück vor der Fürkelescharte? Ist der Blockhang hoch zum Pass markiert bzw. mit Steinmännchen versehen und ohne Kletterei zu machen?


                  • Flachlandtiroler
                    Liebt das Forum
                    • 14.03.2003
                    • 26715

                    • Meine Reisen

                    Zitat von StefanBoe Beitrag anzeigen
                    Hallo Oranje,
                    ich hätte noch eine Frage zum Übergang Marteller Hütte - Fürkelescharte - Rifugio Larcher: Sind Spalten auf dem Gletscherstück vor der Fürkelescharte? Ist der Blockhang hoch zum Pass markiert bzw. mit Steinmännchen versehen und ohne Kletterei zu machen?
                    Die Marteller Seite ist lt. Hüttenwirt so gut wie spaltenfrei und wenn eine Spur liegt... also ich hab#s gemacht (zum Cevedale hoch, solo). Die Trentiner Seite ist normal Schutt. Am Abstieg traf ich Gebirgsrad-Fahrer, die ihre Vehikel fluchend erst den Schutt, dann in kurzen Schuhen den Schnee raufschoben und -trugen Die meinten, die andere Seite wäre auf jeden Fall fahrbar. Klettern kam nicht vor.
                    (Ich bin weiter westlich zum Grat aufgestiegen, die Fürkelescharte als Übergang wird ja einfacher sein.)

                    Auf der Larcher war ich später mal im Rahmen einer Familienwanderung, da kamen auch Radler hinab. Wird oder wurde übrigens vom Bruder des Wirts von der Viozhütte geführt, das sind recht bekannte und erfolgreiche Höhenbergsteiger.
                    Meine Reisen (Karte)


                    • Flachlandtiroler
                      Liebt das Forum
                      • 14.03.2003
                      • 26715

                      • Meine Reisen

                      Damals war ein sehr schneereicher Sommer und Neuschnee hatte es auch noch...
                      Ich glaube zur Fürkelescharte bleibst Du gleich links am Hang?
                      Klicke auf die Grafik für eine vergrößerte Ansicht  Name: P7234232.JPG Ansichten: 0 Größe: 1,96 MB ID: 3091688

                      Klicke auf die Grafik für eine vergrößerte Ansicht

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Größe: 2,29 MB
ID: 3091689
                      Meine Reisen (Karte)


                      • Flachlandtiroler
                        Liebt das Forum
                        • 14.03.2003
                        • 26715

                        • Meine Reisen

                        Andere Seite, unweit der Larcher-Hütte (Fürkelescharte ganz rechts, der Schutthang)
                        Klicke auf die Grafik für eine vergrößerte Ansicht

Name: P8128001-04.jpg
Ansichten: 428
Größe: 718,9 KB
ID: 3091694
                        Meine Reisen (Karte)


                        • StefanBoe
                          • 14.12.2020
                          • 233

                          • Meine Reisen

                          Hallo Flachlandtiroler, vielen Dank für die Infos. Hört sich machbar an und dann kann man das in die geplante Route Allgäu - Gardasee einbauen.😆


                          • thedutch
                            Gerne im Forum
                            • 20.11.2018
                            • 61

                            • Meine Reisen

                            Hallo gemeinsam, wie erwähnt bleibt man tatsächlich zeimlich links am Hang. Alles ziemlich harmloss und ein Gletscher ohne richtige Spalten (die Spalten die da sind sind eher da um den Fuss-anzuknacksen). Als ich das ganze gemacht habe lag etwas neu Schnee wodurch wenige markierungen überhaupt noch sichtbar waren.
                            Aber mit ein bisschen intiution und das anpeilen vom Tiefste punkt der Scharte alles machbar.
                            Was Leuten da mit dem fahrrad machen verstehe ich aber nicht ganz.
                            Ich selbst fahre auch single trails aber verstehe tue ich auch nicht alles..Tja bin halt ein bisschen "oranje"


                            • OutofSaigon
                              • 14.03.2014
                              • 327

                              • Meine Reisen

                              Fantastic, my friend! Congratulations! You have my admiration. I never have this much time in one go.

                              You may want to check the numbering of your hiking days - there seem to be two "No. 16"

                              From Rifugio Lissone to Rifugio Tita Secchi you have trekked the same route that I did in the opposite direction (Alta Via dell' Adamello, also documented on Outdoorseiten), a very beautiful stretch indeed.

                              Applaus, Applaus!


                              • thedutch
                                Gerne im Forum
                                • 20.11.2018
                                • 61

                                • Meine Reisen

                                Hi there,
                                first of all a happy new year and happy outdoors for 2022.
                                Well that is what a call reading an article!
                                I will change it straight away.
                                Thanks for the nice comment.