[SE] Sarek - Die Forumstour

[Menelaos]

So Kinners, is zwar bissle früh für sowas, aber das muss jetzt sein ...

http://www.code-foundation.de/picturegallery/sarek2005/

Das sind die restlichen Bilder .. NICHT SORTIERT nur bissle zensiert ... gibt viele doppelte, also net meckern.
Viel Spaß ...

[Schoolmann]

Sehr, sehr geile Bilder, mal sehen, ob es mich nächstes Jahr auch in den Sarek treibt, bin gerade zurück vom Padjelantaleden und war auch total begeistert.

Gruß

Stefan

[Nammalakuru]

.... her mit den Fotos. Los Mene, organisier da mal was :wink:

[nordwind]

ja wirklich sehr geile Bilder "Herzschmerz"

aber mal ehrlich die Frau habt ihr doch nur als lebendigen Mückenmagneten mitgenommen 8)

Gruß
Markus

[zealander]

so leute... wir waren auch im sarek (20.8. - 3.9). Hier ein paar Fotos

http://www.gpictures.de/ag.php?fid=1766&mid=962

[Schoolmann]

@zealander
Schöne Bilder mit einem kleinem Touch von Hillebergwerbung!

[zealander]

ups... ist mir beim durchschauen auch gerade aufgefallen, dass da ziemlich viele Zeltfotos dabei sind.... werd nachher mal ein paar andere fotos einstellen.... wobei die hilleberg-quote in sarek insgesamt wirklich sehr sehr hoch war...

[Nammalakuru]

so leute... wir waren auch im sarek (20.8. - 3.9). Hier ein paar Fotos

http://www.gpictures.de/ag.php?fid=1766&mid=962

.... kommt einem doch vieles bekannt vor
Scheint als hättet ihr auch Glück mit dem Wetter gehabt.

Nam

[zealander]

ja super schwein gehabt... in 14 tagen 2 1/2 Regentage ... das läßt sich doch sehen... hab ja eher mit 2 1/2 Sonnentagen gerechnet

[Traeuma]

besser spät als nie

Friday 22nd July 2005
Let's get going!
I picked up Carina, a friend of Mene, yesterday at the train station in Heidelberg. An equipment check that evening turned out that her rain jacket was made of cotton and definitely not suitable for hiking in the Sarek at all. Luckily Sebastian was willing to borrow her his jacket and also his wind-stopper fleece. Now I am wondering if her sleeping bag will do the job. We'll see.... or rather will Carina
The transfer to the airport went all fine, and so did the flight. We met Menelaos at the bus station in Stockholm, did some shopping and boarded the Connex train towards Gallivare.

Saturday 23rd July 2005
The night on the train turned out to be as bad as I expected it to be.
Peace of advice: Do pay a bit more and book a bed in a couchette. It's worth it!
Arrival at Gallivare... it's raining and the clouds in the sky tell me that it is not likely to change within the next couple of hours. Nothing to do about that...
Menelaos and myself spent the time on the bus to Ritsem with forging keen plans about even bigger adventures and getting the biggest sponsor contracts. Who would expect anything less?
In Ritsem finally the weather got a bit better and the crossing over on the boat to Alesjaure provided us with the first good views on the snow and cloud covered mountains of the Sarek national park.
My word on this: This trip is going to be great!!... if the weather will get a wee bit better...
The boat was packed with people and most of them left at Anonaime. We just packed our stuff and went off towards Akkastugorna and past it (it's only 15 minutes from the peer to Akka) looking for a suitable campsite.
I would have gone a bit further, but Mene, being very unfriendly and full of sadistic ideas about mutilating the midges, insisted on putting up the tents very soon and close to the path. The place was not the best, but proved to be a lot better than I expected it to be. Just the water source was a bit further away, but still alright to get to.
Although we were facing increasing attacks of midges we decided to be cooking outside of the tent with the Dosenkocher... which was a damn wise decision, because Mene managed to tip over the Dosenkocher and spilling burning meths twice. But the pasta turned out alright in the end.
Well... guess he wasn't that hungry anymore anyways... after eating up half a Wasa pack and half of his spreading-cheese supply with enough of his special Arabian seasoning on top to cover any sight of the cheese.

Sunday 24th July 2005
Although I knew that it won't get too dark around here during the nights I was quite astonished how bright it really still is... eve at 3 am in the morning.
Then at 7am the big surprise: blue sky and bright sunshine... but also tons of pestering midges.
The question whether or not Carina's sleeping bag is good enough or not is solved. She was cold during the night. We had about +12°C. Let's see
We finished off Nam's last train supplies and headed off at around 10am.
Crossing the Vuojatädno supplied us with some nice views. Quite a respectful river.
The path towards the place where the three national parks (Sarek, Padjelanta, Stora Sjöfallets) meet was straight forward and indeed worth taking a few brakes and enjoying this beautiful country.
The mosquitoes are up for us! I have about 40 bites so far. Not too bad considering the fact that I do not and will not use any insect repellent. I'm truly happy with the new FourSeasons shirt. Absolutely impossible to penetrate for the wee buggers and drying very quickly. Good buy!
We took it quit easy, enjoying the sun on our faces and Mene's endless supply of arguments on why anyone walking a ****-leden isn't doing the right thing.
Carina is doing just fine. She's taking it her own pace and even takes the lead from time to time.
And all this with a backpack that must be terrible to carry cause of an extremely soft and therefore useless hip belt which is even a bit too large to close.
Pitched up our tents about 1 hour after entering the Sarek national park. Enough for the first day. We do not want to finish off Carina nor ourselves on the first day of the tour.
We did some cold but very refreshing bathing in the river. Mene was definitely very much enjoying himself.
Later on I went up to a nearby hilltop with Nam, watching the evening sun putting the whole valley in a golden light... the Akka throning to the north... snow covered peaks before us... what a perfect moment!
A German guy I met at Akka yesterday told me that there are plenty of rivers to ford on the way to Mikkastugan. I wonder how we are going to manage that with Carina neither having trekking sandals nor walking poles. Just hope that the weather will stay like it has been today... we all do.

Monday, 25th July 2005
What a day! We were woken by the sun burning on our tents and cooking us alive in them.
First thing after breakfast I put on some suncream, rolled up my sleeves and made sure the the sunglasses will protect me from getting a sunburn on my eyes. This was supposed to be a great day. But it all came different.
We started at 10am and moved along the path. After 10 minutes it started. The came fast and without warning. Mosquitoes. Hundreds. Thousands... showing no mercy whatsoever.
So I took off my sunglasses, rolled down my sleeves, and cursed myself for applying tons of sun creme while securely fitting the mosquito net around my head. Thank god that my trousers and the shirt is mosquito proof. Only this saved me from using mosquito repellents.
And then came our biggest mistake for that day. Trying to avoid the swarms of mosquitoes we decided
to go up to higher ground and taking a shortcut.
Do I need to say more?
In short: The mosquitoes were worse than ever and the shortcut led us for hours through head-high bushes (with an elk in them), up and down the hills and through endless fields of swamp.
So there we are. An hour before Renvaktarstuga it suddenly started raining and we had to pitch up our tents, still being bitten by mosquitoes and getting more and more soaked with every minute. We did cross the Nijákjågåsj before the rain started, which was good, because it became impossible to tiptoe over it on the stones after the rainfall.
The little biting buggers seemed to have taken shelter in our tents as well... not much to our liking.
With everyone of us being tired and sore we did the cooking and I went to my tent early to get a rest from this horrible day... in which the only time you could see the hills unspoiled by your mosquito net were the few seconds of the only break today when I was quickly shoving some food into my mouth.

Tuesday, 26th July 2005
I was woken by my tent.
It was loud... that meant that the wind is strong... and this again meant that the mosquitoes will be down.
Jumping out of my tent I saw that Nam was already sitting in front of his tent having breakfast and enjoying the sun. This was heaven! No mosquitoes... nothing!!!
Half an hour in the wind and sun managed to get our clothes fairly dry. If the day before has been the absolute lowest point on our mood-scale, this day has been the complete opposite. Although the wind kept on blowing firmly the whole day, it was quite good while walking and we did see quite a fair amount of sun that day. Very much enjoyed this day. Not only because of the lack of mosquitoes or the white glaciers hanging down to both sides while walking down the Ruohtesvágge... but also because of the nice river fording after the Renvaktarstuga which has definitely been great fun, though a bit cold.
From there on the way led us on high ground over a couple of boulder fields and some smaller rivers. Carina sadly did not manage to get to the other side with dry feet at the last crossing. My gaiters were worth their weight one again.
The way today was straight forward and impossible to loose (with exception of the short bit after the river fording) and we arrived shortly past 3pm at Mikkastugan with great views to all the valleys. Breathtaking!
Lots of people here, though. And Mikka is really just a wee telephone booth. The stugan next to it was locked and did not look too good.
We pitched up our tent on a higher plateau south-west of Mikkastugan... and had to go inside because of our little friends who had returned by now. Well... I did cook inside. Mene, protected by his raincoat and mosquito net chose to cook outside. Always seeking the adventure

Wednesday, 27th July 2005
Perfect. My right knee is swollen and feeling instable when I walk. Luckily Carina has got Voltaren and homeopathic medicine against swollen joints along. Still worried about how my knee will fell tonight we set off with a fairly strong wind which kept us free from our flying friends.
The path from Mikkastugan is straight forward besides a couple of swamps where my gaiters did com in handy. The first river was easy to cross whereas the second one, Tjågńårisjågåsj, would have been impossible to cross with hiking boots. But, being lucky, there was an old snowfield further up which lead across the river and did still look trustworthy. The current is strong and the water is impossible to see through.
From here on the way led us through a huge boulder field towards Spökstenen where we were rewarded with a great view into the river valley.
The weather changed quite quickly and we had to do the traversing and ascent towards Snávvájávvre on wet and slippery stones and roots. Although the way is always easy to find (to the left is the mountain, to the right the abyss) it is a rather demanding and difficult bit. Care should be taken, especially in wet conditions. Carina, not having done anything like it before, definitely hit her personal limits with Warp-Speed here... but managed to fight her fear and get up to the top where we had a good view back towards Mikkastugan.
And one other thing we were rewarded with here: Mosquito free zone!
We put up our tent directly at the north side of the lake and went for a nice (but rather short) bath in it.
My knee feels fine. Let's hope that it won't get worse. Anyways... resting day tomorrow. Time to regenerate.

Thursday, 28th July 2005
Not really much to tell. We had fairly strong winds and a rather cold night with -1°C. Nam, Mene and Carina basically spent the day inside the Polar 2 tent, reading Harry Potter or other books.
I decided to walk up Låddebákte which took me 2,5 hours up and 5 hours altogether with a longer break up on the top. I decided to go up from the north and over the west ridge, and the same way down again. Mene, who climbed it in the evening took less time choosing the “fast” way down on the snow fields of the east side of the mountain. The way up is 2 hours of nasty and tiring boulder hopping and difficult at times. You should be quite secure in your steps if you chose to summit Låddebákte. But if you do and have good weather conditions you will be rewarded with a breathtaking view down the Rapadalen.
I had fierce wind and snowflakes mixed with hail up there, while having nice condition down by the lake. Warm clothes and gloves are your friends here. And be careful at the ridge. It is very exposed.
What a resting day. My knee feels worse than ever... but the view was worth it!

Friday, 29th July 2005
Off we go towards the Rapadalen.
The ascent towards the pass which gives great views over the valley is easy to take. Not like the descent, which is steep and tiring for legs and joints. My knee feels like bursting apart. I wonder if I will be able to reach Kvikkjokk on my own if it keeps going on like that. The river you have to cross while descending is easy to get over with walking poles by hopping from stone to stone... though gaiters come in handy here as well. From here it took us the whole day to come as far as the reindeer fence. The way is difficult to find at times (because it is totally overgrown with plants) and very tiring with its many ups and downs and with roots and covered holes to make you tip.
Once a tree branch hit me straight into the face almost knocking me out because I was so concentrated an not tipping that I did not see the branch hanging into the way.
Although there are plenty of camping places besides the path we hardly made a stop. Guess why! Mosquitoes!... and a damn lot of them!
There are a couple of rivers to cross, but non required me to use my sandals because of my waterproof gaiters.
From the reindeer fence onwards the way becomes a lot better although you will have to cross two swamps where the right way is difficult to find and gaiters once again would come in handy.
On the last rive crossing (Lulep Vássjájågåsj) Carina and Nam slipped on the stones and flooded their shoes. We camped shortly before Lulep Spádnek, all of us being rather tired. Beautiful as it may look from high above... once in it, the Rapadalen can be a tough piece of way.

Saturday, 30th July 2005
Nam's and Carina's shoes did dry fairly well during the night. From here the last bit to the boat landing at the foot of Nammásj did go fairly easy with only the occasional small river to cross. All possible without taking off your shoes. Some of those crossing though required us to balance over dead birch trees laid over the rivers. Quite a bit of good balance is needed here... and of course walking poles.
There were some Swedish girls walking behind us that obviously didn't have that necessary bit of balance as we all heard a loud scream followed by a “splash” shortly after... and laughter after that
The boat to Aktse comes twice a day at high season if you call it over the radio. The price to Aktse is 200SEK and will give you good views and fast transport on the one hand and tons of adrenaline combined with the funny feeling of shitting your pants on the other.
Maybe the boat driver has just had a bad day... who knows. The drive was rather fast...
Nam and myself went first because there's only place for 5 people on the boat and 3 Swedes were already on it. Waiting in Aktse for Mene and Carina wasn't too bad, as the shop there is well equipped and a can of Brippsblå does taste like heaven after a week of hiking.
We paid for the campsite and did some more “convenience shopping” which seemed to have hardened certain beliefs about the German culture... well, we didn't mind. It's still holidays!
Skierffe in the setting sun does look wonderful.
Later on we bought some smoked salmon and freshly baked bread from the farm just below Aktse. First time in 8 year that I ate meet.

Sunday, 31st July 2005
The night was again rather cold with -2°C and the weather seems to be good enough for Skierffe, so Nam, Mene and myself went for the top. Carina gladly stayed in Aktse with our backpacks and gave her sore body a badly needed an well deserved rest.
Mene had to give up about 40 minutes from the top because his heel was starting to hurt badly.
The first bit up from Aktse through the woods is fairly steep, but once up there the path is easy to follow and the way over the north ridge is clearly marked with stone cairns and not too hard. But be aware that you will not find any water up there.
Being a bit under time pressure (because we wanted to catch the 5pm boat to the Kungsleden) Nam and myself managed to get up on the top of Skierffe in two hours.
Well... I won't try to describe how it is, standing on top of Skierffe in bright sunshine, because this is beyond description or photographs.
Once there, get as close to the ridge as you dare to, spread your arms and scream! Only then will you understand why the summit of Skierffe has been the absolute highlight of this tour.
At the other side of the lake you will find a hut and plenty of campsites... but also mosquitoes. Lots of them. Mene's attempt to try smoking them out of the hut rather ended in killing ourselves than making a change in mosquito population, so Mene and I decided to put up our tents and sleep outside.
The nice fire outside the hut freed us form the mosquitoes and after 10pm saved us from turning into ice-cubes. Temperatures dropped to -4°C that night. Although Nam and Carina slept in the hut that night with a fire going in the stove and constant 18°C... Carina was still cold during the night.

Monday, 1st August 2005
Thousands of mosquitoes in my tent. It hasn't been this bad before! And the wee flying buggers acting like kamikaze fighters. Completely out of their minds!
Nam took the lead and led us at an incredible speed over the hills and up to Rittak where we took a longer break and had a wee nap after a snack. Mene has been the backlight of our group the whole day, limping and cursing his heel and his Hanwag Alaska shoes. Just good, that we will arrive in Kvikkjokk tomorrow.
Having spent quite a bit of time at Rittak and with Mene and especially Carina being in no condition to keep on walking until Pårtestugan we decided to head west and look out for a ruin (marked “Förfallen” on the map) to camp there.
There was even a small path leading that way... which was gone not long after. Carina and myself waited for about 45 minutes north of the place where the ruins should be and Nam and Mene went off to look for them.
They did indeed find the burrows (which looked like Hobbit holes), but the vegetation there was just too thick to be camping there. So we pitched up our tents where we had been waiting and enjoyed a beautiful sunset and again a rather cold night.

Tuesday, 2nd August 2005
We decided to split up. Mene and myself rather felt like cutting directly south through the bush to the Kungsleden, whereas Nam and Carina chose to retrace the way east to where we had left the Kungsleden yesterday.
Damn... that was fun ... though quite strenuous.
Shortly before Pårtestugan it began to rain, but none of us really cared anymore. Especially not Carina who was no doubt not going to make it much longer.
From here we just set our view to the ground, everyone of us drawn into his own thoughts...
until we finally reached Kvikkjokk. Salvation at last
Here we took the time and all possible means to regenerate our energy and spirits... sauna, chocolate, beer... just wonderful!
Mene, Carina and me parted from Nam the next morning to make our way home, whereas Nam spent another couple of days around Kvikkjokk.

All in all it has been a great tour and I always get a warm feeling when I think back at what we saw and went through within those 10 days.
Sarek is definitely worth seeing and experiencing... but do not expect such luck with the weather as we had it
... and hiking through the Sarek as a beginner to hiking and outdoors might not be the wisest thing to do! Alhough the tour itself is fairly easy considering the necessity of route-finding abilities, it nevertheless is rather remote and conditions can change rapidly withing a couple of hours.

[Fjaellraev]

Cool , das Warten hat sich gelohnt.
Habe so einige Ecken und Erlebnisse (gewisse Sachen scheinen jedes Jahr gleich zu sein) wiedererkannt, genialer Bericht.
Das einzig Schlimme dran ist: ich weiss jetzt, dass es noch nicht zu spät ist meinen Bildern doch noch Text nachzuliefern. :wink: Mal schauen wann ich es schaffe...

Gruss
Henning

[Nammalakuru]

Sarek-Tour online. Dafür auch sehr ausführlich wie ich denke

DSL wäre beim betrachten schon wichtig. Javascript muss eingeschaltet sein!
Die Koordinaten der einzelnen Lager sind geschätzt!

---

@Fjällräv: Hab mir mal ein Bild von dir gezockt (RITSEM) ... wenn du mir sagst, dass es O.K. ist mach ich noch nen copyright mit deinem Namen drauf.
... sorry musste sein, hatte keins von Ritsem.

Nam

[Shirkan]

Sarek-Tour online. Dafür auch sehr ausführlich wie ich denke

Wow, wahninnig toll gestaltet und super informativ!! Meine Hochachtung - du setzt hier Maßstäbe!

Ist dir wirklich gut gelungen

[JMarwede]

Wow. Die Referenz, eindeutig... Ich bin schwer beeindruckt!

Vielen dank für den tollen Bericht!

mfg jan

[Zwiebelforscher]

joa is echt faszinierend
ich bin mittlerweile echt am grübeln, ob ich nach dem zivi nächstes jahr im sommer nach island fahre oder in den sarke. und du machst mir die entscheidung nicht unbedingt leichter muss ich sagen ;)
aber für den sarek brauche ich noch einen der etwas erfahrener ist als ich, alleine trau ich mir das nicht zu

[Fjaellraev]

Genial gemacht . Macht natürlich besonders Spass wenn man die eine oder andere Ecke wiedererkennt.

Gruss
Henning

Nun ja- mal etwas Kritik:
Ich finde es zu unruhig- man muss viel herumklicken, die Bilder sind zu klein. Und die Googlekarte ist ja eine schöne Spielerei.
lieber "less s more"?

Peter

[Ranger]

WOW, das macht so richtig Lust auf den Sarek.

Größere Bilder sind natürlich immer besser.

Gruß,
Robert

[Nammalakuru]

Schön dass es euch gefällt :-)

Nun ja- mal etwas Kritik:
Ich finde es zu unruhig- man muss viel herumklicken, die Bilder sind zu klein. Und die Googlekarte ist ja eine schöne Spielerei.
lieber "less s more"?

Größere Bilder sind natürlich immer besser.

Kritik wahrgenommen ... die Bilder in den Reisenotizen lassen sich nun auch in einer größeren Variante betrachten :wink:

Das Klicken bei Google Maps lässt sich dagegen nicht abstellen, dafür hat man aber am Ende auch imho nen guten Toureinblick.

Nam

Danke Nam... jetzt seh ich den Elch

Peter