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  1. Fuchs
    Avatar von pfadfinder
    Dabei seit
    14.03.2006
    Ort
    Hamburg, Dresden
    Beiträge
    1.454

    [NO] Hardangervidda Ost Solotrip

    #1
    Mitreisende: pfadfinder
    Hey guys,
    I gonna write a little report about my solo trip through the east of the Hardangervidda during the last days. The reason why I write in English is that some people I met on the road may understand it better – I guess, you will deal with it well and hope that my mistakes don’t bother you too much…
    As I looked for an area to get my mind clear during the semester holydays I decided to check out the area between Rjukan and Finse just by myself without walking on trails – I had never been there before but I am well used to the landscape that I worked in spending a year in Newfoundland (Canada) or hiking from Alta (Norway) through Stabbursdalen a few years ago.

    Equipment
    Tent: Lightwave G2 Ultra
    Sleeping bag: ME Classic 500
    Stove: MSR Superfly + 460g of gas
    Other equipment: Fishing rod (telescope for trout), waterproof camera


    Day 1 – Wet start
    I didn’t wonna depend on fixed flight dates and thus had taken the ferry from Hirtshals to Larvik. I continued hitchhiking and taking two busses to reach Rjukan. Leaving Drammen in the night it had started to rain a little bit – I had started on a sunny day in Hamburg and became worried, I didn’t want my first real holiday for half a year to sink in rain and wasn’t too sure anymore if I really wanted to spend it in Norway. The first guy who had given me a ride was happy and relaxed: He promised me a sunny day beginning in the early afternoon…I tried to believe him - I had not checked the forecast anyhow and left my smartphone at home – I travelled without any phone, GPS, … the only indirect social connection should be a digital camera that would allow me to report on the trip for you ;)
    Because I hadn’t got much sleep during the way up north I fell asleep in the bus from Notodden to Rjukan. When the bus driver woke me up in Rjukan it was raining steadily already.
    The breakfast I had at Rjukan – small Coke, small apple, small bread stuff – cost me 11€. The fishing card 4,50€, even if it was not obvious, where you are allowed to fish with it because they didn’t have any map for me that shows the fishing areas. They have a manually drawn map at the tourist information that I took a picture of with my camera…time to get away from there.
    My backpack got almost 1,5 kg lighter when I started leaving Rjukan on the road heading west towards the fjellstue: Rain jacket, pants and gaiters had to be worn.
    A lovely Spain-Norwegian couple picked me up and dropped me at the fjellstue, we had a really lively conversation about the history of Rjukan - the place where the Heroes Of Telemark destroyed Adolf Hitlers heavy water plant during the second world war – and they invited me to visit them in Spain later in the year.



    I felt saver choosing a marked hiking trail to get used to the map scale of 1 : 100.000 when hiking through the only piece of forest on the entire hike to get up on the plateau. The rain became heavier passing the typical Scandinavian birch forest – reaching the plateau a nice breeze was added to it. Within two hours of hiking I got my feet wet and the forecast didn’t seem to be right as I kept walking through horizontal rain. Because I was faster than I thought and quite sure that Store Sandvatn was the last pond that I was allowed to fish in I pinched my tent and decided to lose two of my spinners in 0,5m high waves…



    Suddenly the sun really came out and I spread my gear on the ground before I fell asleep – exhausted and demotivated in the end of this semi-perfect day.


    Day 2 – Berries

    The night was cold – my Classic 500 has lost about one third of its filling since I bought it (brand new) really cheap, the only reason why I would never buy a ME sleeping bag for something close to the regular price. For the rest of the trip I had to pimp my sleeping bag with a Woolpower shirt, long johns and a Primaloft jacket.
    I got out of the tent and made myself a nice Turkish coffee – dry grass and a mix of sun and clouds made it feel like real holidays. I looked for some berries to add to hot semolina pudding – I had taken the cheap stuff with more sugar than anything else and thus expected crowberries (which I was surrounded by) to go best with it because of their strong and lightly bitter taste. My expectation was right, even if I had nothing to compare because there were no blueberries or cloudberries around and I don’t know any other berries than these three ;)





    I had borrowed the G2 Ultra from a friend, he and I had made fun of the people who manage to break their Sporks all the time – the exact same thing had happened to me transporting it on the ferry…at least the fork was still alright…
    During the day my boots and socks dried. My route went towards Jurvik Fjellet, no more trails, very few cabins and knee-deep bushes to walk through in the still low-lying area. Within one of the bogs I ran into a huge patch of cloudberries – my favorites. About a third of them was ripe and I fed myself until being absolutely sure that the limit of possible digestion was exceeded.






    Does anybody know these poisonous-looking ones?





    On this day I felt that I had completely arrived in the wilderness – the little river on the following picture had to be crossed and I didn’t run into anybody.



    The plateau of innumerable peaks on the other side of the river will fascinate me later - a wild labyrinth of brooks, rocks, few green and continuously changing views. Looking west from the area around Jurvik Fjellet…



    Too bad that the clouds covered the clouds later on – but the strong wind had made a night up on this lookout uncomfortable anyhow. It should not become warmer...


    Day 3 – Windy edge
    For the night I had hidden lower within my lovely labyrinth. I was hoping for a sunny day to allow me taking wonderful pictures of the western mountains. This day I should get to the highest peak of my trip (15-1600m). But as I came up the first little peak on this day ice-cold wind hit my face and I kept walking underneath a cloud-covered sky.
    I hiked the eastern upper edge of Mösvatn where the dry and cold wind came up – I took most of the little peaks that offered me nice views, I hoped to see some game, the hunting season for reindeers had just started and I hadn’t seen any game yet except chicken/grouse/ptarmigans and Lemming-like stuff. Not much life to see…





    There is a trail at the bench of Mösvatn that goes to the cabin of Mogen and continues north the way I wanted to go. But I stayed up in the mountains – the only reason to go down there had been the possibility of buying a fresh fishing card – I still hadn’t caught a single fish anyhow and did definitely not feel like showing up at one of these cabins…
    After I saw a one-man tent at Hellegjuvtjönnan and felt close to a hypothermia having tried to catch a fish for about an hour and a half (I did not have any watch with me by the way) I kept walking in the sunset. On my way I walked into approximately 1-300 reindeers which crossed a huge bog in front of me – absolutely wonderful to watch them as a huge brown-grey covey, the antlers perfectly visible in contrast to the horizon…too bad I got such a bad camera.



    The sky cleared off and the disappearing golden sunlight got chased by a bright and majestic full moon in an angle of 180°. I felt absolutely great: Exhausted but softly carried by the beauty of the scenery – I went down the edge towards Vesle Gjuvsjäen and spent the night there.




    Day 4 – Socializing

    I felt like a man at the age of 110 … man, you were not in shape! – I turned around and slept in.
    The wind had calmed and it was warmer than the days before. My plan was to buy a fishing card at the cabin of Lagaros and continue crossing the lakes of Skjerhöltjönn and continue walking in the lonely mountains west of them towards Rauhellern. Because they so not sell fishing cards at the cabin and I was pissed that I went on the trails for nothing I bought three packs of milk powder and boiled myself the second café au lait of the day.
    Reaching the bench of Övre Skjerhöltjönn I realized what this symbol I noticed earlier was standing for: A nice and easy spot to cross a river or lake – the spot I had chosen on the map did not have this symbol…



    Because I didn’t wonna hike 6km back to where I just came from I decided to try it a few meters further upstream:



    There was no wood that I could have used as a pole. I prepared my backpack for the crossing and packed everything waterproof so it would have survived at least a few minutes in the stream if I should have to throw the backpack away. I went into the ice-cold water with naked legs – after 1,5m I had to turn around: The rocks were very slippery – no chance without a pole! I kept looking around and found a piece of wood that was better than nothing. I ate a few raisins and a piece of chocolate to make my body a bit more resistant against hypothermia. Because of the surface of the rocks I had to step into deep spots – it did not take long until my legs felt paralyzed…when my balls were diving the second time I decided to turn around and went back carefully. Out here by myself without a prober pole or rope at these temperatures – the thought that there might be people in this world that had been really sad if I had not come back from this trip came into my mind before I was half in.
    Because I did not know how long I would have been able to move my extremities properly I pulled back from the idea of swimming through the calm water of the lake.
    What now? – Going back? – Continuing on the trail, crossing at the bridge and going back into the mountains on the other side of the lake? – Looking for a different spot?
    First of all I was happy that I made it back and had everything nicely set up to get warm quickly – I covered myself with the sleeping bag and decided to have a nice lunch: Curry Couscous with Nuts, raisins and berries – delicious!



    I had the third coffee and started reading DEMIAN of H. Hesse. After about an hour without decision I met a nice guy from Kongsberg who was here for fishing and had set up a tiny camp at the lake. After the first ten seconds of mistrust between us two wild guys we felt really comfortable hanging out at the lake for the rest of the day and the next morning, too. We went fishing, talked about men’s stuff, I caught a small trout on a green-silver rapala (didn’t have any spinners left) but threw it in again because of its size – he had given me one of his trouts anyhow, so nice!

    Day 5 – Terrible washing
    This man had beacon and eggs for breakfast! – And he did not wonna change it for semolina pudding with berried or muesli…We went on in different directions – I walked towards the bridge that leads to Rauhellern with one half of the trout still leftover. I didn’t wonna carry the trout for too long and when the sun was up really high (the weather had changed back from fall to summer) I put my clothes into a nicely flowing brook and turned the trout-for-lunch-maker on, with salt, pepper and a shit lot of butter – as I love it. I washed myself in the brook while the fish started to fall of the bone: It was a terrible bath! – I got my balls wet the day before but didn’t manage to only wash the upper part of my body…







    And because this half of the trout was quite a bit of rich meat I made myself some crowberry juice as a desert. You just have to crush them and add some water, then somehow filter it and if you do not drink more than a liter it will even help your stomach to digest.
    I kept walking on the official hiking trail. At the cabin of Rauhellern I got myself a new medium-small silver spinner and a fishing card. Close to the cabin I caught two little trouts which I kept for the next day and went up the hills to enjoy the sunset and the upcoming full moon…


    Day 6 – Natural cooking

    I went across the highest peaks of the vast area, followed the hiking trail later on because there was nobody to see for many kilometers and I wasn’t sure where to cross Holmetjönnan safely.



    At some point I had eaten my two little trouts and got the feeling that there was something waiting for me in the lake just above a small brook on my way...Suddenly he strongly bent my rod, pulled a few meters of fishing line until I adjusted my break – an intense and surprising fight, and a successful ending!



    I expected him to be overfilled with milt, but I was wrong about the amount of meat – I only took the fillets with me, looking for an alternative to fried fish already. Too bad I did not bring a steel-pot to smoke it…
    On my way (not on the trails anymore) I went through some bushes and found a bit of firewood every now and then, it might just be enough for a nice little cooking fire. I used my gaiters to bundle it and kept on walking.



    This should be my last evening. I quickly pinched the tent and got the fire going. One smoky baked fish fillet on the rocks…no butter, just salt and pepper. The skin burns on the rock and dries. The rich meat falls of the skin in one piece and you can use the skin as a plate – delicious!



    I finished the day with a coffee – trying to slow down the process of dozing out of the evening...




    Day 7 – Reaching the road again

    I slept in, looked around while walking, had a nap after having eaten the second (bigger, didn’t hit the middle) fish fillet and finished at Halne Fjellstova in the late afternoon. I hitchhiked back to Drammen and got a perfect ride to Hamburg, happy that I did not book anything in advance. The ferry ride back to Denmark was a perfect way of looking back to Norway and writing this report…

    Short conclusion:
    After having done this trip it was the first time that I felt kind of healthy in my brain for quite a while. Being out there just by myself in the untouched nature was awesome! – So, please, do not go there!

    Thanks - Lenny
    Geändert von pfadfinder (31.08.2013 um 04:20 Uhr)
    ,,Es widerspricht ganz klar der Natur des Menschen, sich über allzu lange Zeit in geschlossenen Räumen aufzuhalten!\"

    ->Physikalisch gesehen gibt es gar keine Kälte!

  2. Fuchs

    Dabei seit
    16.08.2009
    Beiträge
    1.038

    Hardangervidda Ost Solotrip [N]

    #2
    Thanks for your wonderful report. I like it!
    bear shit - sounds like bells & smells like pepper

  3. Dauerbesucher

    Dabei seit
    02.06.2009
    Ort
    Bergisches Land
    Beiträge
    517

    AW: Hardangervidda Ost Solotrip [N]

    #3
    Very nice pics and lovely Report. Thanks!

  4. Fuchs
    Avatar von pfadfinder
    Dabei seit
    14.03.2006
    Ort
    Hamburg, Dresden
    Beiträge
    1.454

    AW: Hardangervidda Ost Solotrip [N]

    #4
    Danke - wir können auch auf Deutsch antworten, kennt jemand diese Beeren nun?

    Lieben Gruß
    ,,Es widerspricht ganz klar der Natur des Menschen, sich über allzu lange Zeit in geschlossenen Räumen aufzuhalten!\"

    ->Physikalisch gesehen gibt es gar keine Kälte!

  5. Fuchs
    Avatar von dominiksavj
    Dabei seit
    10.04.2011
    Ort
    Württemberg
    Beiträge
    1.569

    AW: Hardangervidda Ost Solotrip [N]

    #5
    Spontan musste ich an eine Rauschbeere denken, aber die sind blauer.....
    freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose

  6. Fuchs
    Avatar von Julia
    Dabei seit
    08.01.2004
    Ort
    Skrautvål i Valdres
    Beiträge
    1.363

    AW: [N] Hardangervidda Ost Solo Trip

    #6
    Zitat Zitat von pfadfinder Beitrag anzeigen
    Does anybody know these poisonous-looking ones?
    Alpen-Bärentraube (norw. Rypebær), Arctostaphylos alpina. Die auf dem Foto ist unreif, wenn sie reif sind, sind sie schwarz. Das sind die, die im Herbst das Fjell so schön rot färben :-). Giftig sind die nicht.

    Spontan musste ich an eine Rauschbeere denken, aber die sind blauer.....
    Die sind auch vom Strauch her der Heidelbeere viel ähnlicher, nicht so am Boden liegend.

  7. Fuchs
    Avatar von pfadfinder
    Dabei seit
    14.03.2006
    Ort
    Hamburg, Dresden
    Beiträge
    1.454

    AW: [NO] Hardangervidda Ost Solotrip

    #7
    Sehr schön, danke - dann werde ich die bei der nächsten Tour mal verkosten sofern sie reif sind!

    LG
    ,,Es widerspricht ganz klar der Natur des Menschen, sich über allzu lange Zeit in geschlossenen Räumen aufzuhalten!\"

    ->Physikalisch gesehen gibt es gar keine Kälte!

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