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Allgäuer
04.10.2006, 21:49
Region/Kontinent: Nordeuropa

Hallo Miteinander,

hier kommt endlich mein Bericht meines Sommerurlaubs.
Hat leider etwas gedauert, aber ich kämpf z. Zt. mit einer schlechten Internetverbindung, so daß vor allem der Upload der Bilder etwas zäh ging.

Eigentlich wollte ich einen kurzen Bericht schreiben, aber während des Schreibens wurde er doch etwas ausführlicher, aber ich denke soviel Platz gibts hier schon :wink:

Den Bericht hab ich in Englisch geschrieben (sorry), da ich auch ein paar Urlaubs-Bekanntschaften damit versorgen möchte und zweimal schreiben wollte ich ihn auch nicht :bg: (außerdem bin ich ja nicht der erste, der hier auf englisch schreibt :wink: )
Wenn der Bericht teilweise etwas holprig ist, kann das daran liegen, weil ich ihn Stück für Stück geschrieben habe - oder mein englisch nicht so gut ist :wink:

Die Bilder zum Bericht könnte Ihr hier (http://www.ihler.com/schweden2006) finden.

Zuletzt möchte ich mich noch für die vielen Tips bedanken, die ich hier entweder auf meine konkreten Fragen bekommen habe oder die ich in anderen Threads gefunden habe.

Jetzt will ich Euch aber nicht länger aufhalten und hoffe, daß Euch der Bericht auch interessiert.

Gruß
Matthias


28.07.2006 Departure
After a quiet last working day I left the office already at 4pm and could start relaxed on the train in the evening.
At first I traveled in slow trains to Augsburg where I changed to the night train.

29.07.2006 In the train
Although I got only a seat in the night train I could sleep some hours and when I awoke the train was one hour late because it had to stop at Hannover (propably some drunken people on the tracks) :grrr: .
This delay was not a problem for me because I had one and a half hour waiting time in Hamburg. But when I was in the train from from Hamburg to Kopenhagen I got doubts getting the train to Stockholm.
Because there where only three minutes to change the train when I used the direct connection I planned to change train in Ringsted what should bring me 10 more minutes but the rail guart told me that both trains will be connected because of few tracks because of construction work on Kopenhagen Central what so that there where only three minutes left - too less to change trains.
But when we arrived Kopenhagen the train to Stockholm was still waiting on the platform direct in opposite of my train. So I fortunately got my train in last moment.
Also this train had very soon 30 minutes delay but that was no problem for me because of approx. 2 hours of waiting in Stockholm before the Connex to Boden departures. So I had still enough time to get some cash and buy some sweedish food.

30.07.2006 Arrival in Lappland - Kebenekaise Fjällstation
When I awoke on the Connex (this night I had a couchette) there was no delay. And I could change train according to the time table in Boden.
In this train to Kiruna I was sitting next to a Swedish hiker in my age. His destination was also Nikkoluokta and he also wanted to get on the Kebenekaise Summit.
And he wanted to walk to Kebenekaise Fjällstätion in this evening. I was also thining of walking some kilometers in the evening after two days in the train.
The people which where waiting for the bus in Kiruna where almost only hikers.
After we arrived in Nikkoluokta I also decided to walk some Kilometers with the Swedish guy.
Nikkoluokta seemed not to inviting to me for camping (too touristic).
When I was starting walking it was almost clear that I would make the whole distance to the Fjällstation :bg: .
This way is a almost flat good path throug a green landscape with trees and bushes and at the last part the way passes under a high, almost vertical wall of a mountain called Darfáloalgi. And there are also some exciting views on Kebnekaise and other mounains in neigbourhood.
The weather was dry while I was walking but some dark clouds passed over me which intensifyed the impression of this mountains.
On lake Láddjujávri our paths separated - the Swedish guy waited for the boat while I always prefer to do as much as possible on my own feet.
Because he had to wait pretty long for the boat I was before him on the Fjällstation 8).
On the Fjällstation I found a real "Tent-Town". Approx. 30 tents around the Fjällstation but I found also a good place for my small tent.
After I set up my tent it had some drops of rain but on that time this was no problem.

31.07.2006 To the top - Kebenekaise
As usual I got up quite early, which was also supported by the light night. Fortunately it had stopped raining in the night. So I had my breakfast while the first groups where already starting to Kebenekaise.
Soon I was also on the way to the top. I was walking with a light pack because I wanted to return to the Fjällstation on afternoon.
The first part leed throug a green valley that was rather flat and there were still tents beside the way.
The way is a good to find path and also the sign to Singi and for "Östra-Leden" and "Västra-Leden" are clear to identify.
Because I did it alone I choosed the "Västra Leden" (the "Östra-Leden" leads over a glacier and has some climbing).
After some time the way got steeper along a small river called Kittelbacken. This was a nice scenery and also the view to the valley back is nice.
After crossing the river the path got again steep and from now the way led only over rocks.
Unfortunately there is a climb down of approx. 200m form a mountain called Duolbagorni which is rahter steep before the final rise on the top starts which is on the first 200m of heigth also steep.
After that the mountain gots more flat but it seems to be a endless desert of rocks but a short distance after the "Toppstugan" the bright, white peak of Kebenekaise appears step for step.
This is a real fascinating view because it seems as someone has put as small cap of ice on this big hilltop.
Very exiting is the fact that this ice-peak is a north-south-edge and you approach from south so that you see a very thin and pointed peak and on the top you have really not very much space to east and west.
Of course also the view form top is great to all the mountains around and the glaciers.
The way down was the same like up. On my way down I got some drops of rain but only for a half of an hour, and not very much (on the top I could see it raining in direction Nikkaluokta and Sarek and it seemed to be much more - so I was again lucky).
Down on the Fjällstation I had first some beer to celebrate the highest peak of Sweden.
And it is a real serious tour even if 2104 meters are not too high for the Alps but included the 200m that you have to got down while the tour it is more than 1500m in heigth and propably more than 15km in distance.
So I think 10 hours for up and down which is sometimes to read is a realistic indication for an avarage hiker (I did it in 7 and a half hour :bg: )

01.08.2006 Tarfala - Kaskasavagge - Vistas
In the night there was again some rain but when I got up it was a pretty nice sky. (Thats the way I like it, some rain in the night for nature and sunshine on day for me ;-))
Today I had again the big pack on my back. At first I walked back direction Nikkaloukta until the bridge over the Tarfala river. There I went to the left along the River which is a rather big river - it's wather is coming from several glaciers and it was quite warm (the day - not the water!!).
On a small waterfall I've seen a phenomenon new for me. The sun was shining on the waterfall and it formed a kind of rainbow but it was not a bow but something like a curtain.
Further on the way there were some great views on the glaciers around which are very close before I arrived at Tarfalastugan. Which is a nice hut in a rough surrounding.
From there I continued after a short stop around the Tarfala-lake and up on a morane of the glacier. Although the surrounding was very rough the view to the valley and the lake with the glacier which is flowing into the lake was great.
Short after the lake the path gets very close to the glacier with the options either walking over it on the border or climbing through the rocks.
I chosed the rocks - the glacier had many crevasses and adittional a man I met at Tarfalastugan told something about a deadly crevasse-fall some days ago.
Although I wasn't climbing for a long time it was not a big problem, with some mountain-experience it is good to do.
After that passage the rocks got bigger so that a path was no longer visible during all the time. Only some stone markings where on the way.
But on the small lake on 1193m also this markings ended. The way up to the pass over to Kaskasavagge lead over quite big rocks and was rather exhausting.
Also the Kaskasavagge there where no markings but much of the valley wasn't so rocky.
But nevertheless it is a strange feeling walking without a path for someone who is used walking on well marked paths in the Alps. But as a first stage to get used on the conditions in Sarek it was quite good.
Beginning at the bridge near the Kaskavagge-Hut the path started again. Because I thought that I will be soon at the hut with some beer I started walking faster but it was still some hours of walking. But soon I could at least see the Vistas valley and the river which is flowing through the valley with a thick vegetation an forest on both banks.
After steep way down it was like in paradise walking on a good path throug all that green after a day only walking on stones and rocks. (Well, I think if it is more wet this way could be unpleasant on some parts).

02.08.2006 Alesjaure
After the very long day before and due to the fact that I had much time until I had to be in Saltoluokta to meet Christian I made some changes in my planning.
Originally I wanted to walk the way from Vistas to Nallo through the Unna Reaiddávággi but it seemed to be similar ground like the day before and also rather long. But the direct way to Nallo through Stuor Feaiddávággi seemed too short for me so I decided to walk to Alesjaure this day and via Tjäktja to Nallo on the next day.
And I must say it was a good decision. The Vistas valley from the Vistas hut upstream has not that thick vegetation like downstream but it is also very green, impressing mountains on both sides some with glaciers and some very lovely spots at the river for resting. Sometimes it remembered me on a velley in the Alps with one big difference - I meet 5 other people on the whole distance of 18 kilometer.
In the Alps I think I would meet at least 5 people per kilometer in such a nice valley. Since then this was my answer when I was asked why I spend my holiday in Sweden although I'm living in the Alps.
On the last part the way led first a little up along some very lovely lakes and a great view over the valley of Alesjaure with the Same-Village on the lake before it was going down to Alesjaurestugan.
Because it was not such a long way today I had enough time for sitting in the sun and drinking some beer in the afternoon - perfect for regeneration from the hard day yesterday. Also the lake was very nice and quite warm (the warmest lake I was in on this holiday) but unfortunately it is very shallow and swimming near the hut was not possible. And for the cooling after the Sauna it was almost to warm. But that didn't matter on this very nice day.

03.08.2006 Tjäktja - Nallo
The first part of the way today already knew from last year as I walked the Kungsleden but due to the fact that I was six weeks later this year it was quite different. Last year there was especially near Tjätka pretty much snow and no other people than me. This year it was exact opposite: no snow but other people on the way.
But compared with reports I heared from Kungsleden in summer it was not too much people.
The way to Tjätka is easy to walk and well marked. But this changes rapid if you leave the Kungsleden and turn to Nallo. It already starts at the junction to Nallo - theres is none (or I haven't seen it ;-)).
The "way" leads without markings slightly up, at the beginning over gras but soon the ground changes to stones and rocks. But until the pass it is even without way and without markings not a big problem. But from the pass down to Nallo it gets more difficult. According to the Stugvard from Nallo this is the most difficult of the three ways to Nallo. In any case it is not suitable for a "normal" Kungsleden hiker.
But it was again a great part of way - beside the fact that I didn't meet anyone on this part the view especially starting at the pass down to the lake (1078m) and the small hut between all the huge mountains was superb.
And also Nallo is a very nice hut. Because it is so remote it is a simple hut and therefore I wanted to visit it because I like such kind of huts. And again the afternoon was great in the sun, but without beer today (the only little disadvantage at Nallo :bg: )

04.08.2006 Unna Räita - Sälka
This day was a very relaxing day. Because I had enough time and because I stayed at Singi already last year I only had the way to Sälka.
To lengthen the way a little I decided to visit Unna Räita which the Nallo Stugvard praised very much. The way was similar to the day before. Between Nallo and Sälka a good and well marked path. But if you leave to Unna Räita there is again nothing but stones, rocks - and some parts of gras but no way.
Soon the glaciers appeared and they are very close in this valley. And because I'm fascinated of glaciers again it was again a nice side trip. But the highlight was only at the hut arrived. Beside the hut is a green lake and a glacier which is flowing direct into the lake and more than 100m below the valley continues with a river which is feed by this lake.
Back on the way to Sälka it was a easy walk but no less beautyfull now through a gentle green landscape. The perfect change to the alpin part before that.
At Sälka I enjoyed again the afternoon sun, beer and later the sauna and the cold river which is flowing behind the sauna.

05.08.2006 Singi - Kaitum
This was also an easy day. Just walking on the Kungsleden with no big difference on heigth and no side trips. As I started early as usual I passed Singi already before noon although I wasn't walking too fast.
The landscape continued gentle and green as the last day ended with the broad Tjäktja-river on the right hand side. The most exciting thing today was the failed meal on noon.
Propably I hadn't closed my Trangia burner on the day before so some spirit leaked out and I didn't wash the pot but only dryed it forgetting the bad taste staying on it. So I had a meal that tasted for spirit because I didn't want to throw it away. Water didn't help to get rid of that bat taste in mouth only some chocolate helped.
After I put some Djungeloila on me at Kaitum (here it was the first time that I got attacked by a swarm of moskitos when I was washing) I again enjoyed sun and beer. Here I meet some interesting people beside others a young German who did a 5-week solo-tour but also other experienced hikers who had some tips for me.

06.08.2006 Teusajaure - Vakkotavarte/Saltoluokta
At Kaitum I read that the motorboat over Teusajaure is at the morning only going until 10am. And because I knew from last year that I can't row :x I started early to get this boat because I wanted to get the bus from Vakkotavare to Saltoluokta in the afternoon.
This day wasn't as nice as the last days. It was cloudy and there were at times some rain drops. But fortunately it was dry when it build down my tent. On this day there was more up and down that the day before but I arrived already shortly before 9am at Teusajaure so that I could use the boat at 9.
On the further way to Vakkotavare the rain got stronger so that I put on my rain jacket after all. It already seemed to repeat the last year when I got really wet exact on the same part of way. But fortunately it didn't got so strong and short after noon I was in Vakkotavare. After cooking a meal, writing my diary and talking with a Scotish guy who I meet at Vakkotavare and who was walking the Kungsleden I got to the bus to Kebnats where the STF-boat is doing the transport to Saltoluokta.
At Saltoluokta I had a very remarkable meeting. In the service hut I met two people who I already met last year in Aktse. Although if they are twice a year in Sarek I think it is really crazy to be twice in the same hut. Because they are very experienced on Sarek I got many many valuable tips. Thank you again.
In the evening I had some whisky with ths Scottish guy (not before I had some beer ;-)) who also stayed at Saltoluokta for the night.

07.08.2006 "Resting Day" - Lulep Gierkav
Today with the boat in the evening should Christian arrive at Saltoluokta. That meant that I had a resting day. But because I can't sit the whole day in/before my tent therefore I decided already some days earlier when it was clear that I would have this "free" day that I climb up to the Lulep Gierkav.
This is a mountain near Saltoluokta which stands quite alone and is also quite high - so perfect for a great 360° view.
The path is almost good and when it goes into the rocks it is well marked. And as I expected the view over the lakes and mountains was very nice.
Unfortunately I hadn't binoculars with me so I couldn't explore the ground in the area to the west - where we planned to come out from Sarek a few days later.
Short after noon I was back in Saltoluokta so for me it was a perfect "resting" day: some activity in the morning and writing my diary, reading and solving some Sudokus in the afternoon.
As it was planned Christian arrived with the boat in the evening and I welcomed him with a cool beer - the only useful welcome present for a German respective Bavarain.
After he put up his tent we checked the proviant we bought some more in the shop and of course some more beer ;-)
I meant to remember that Aktse had a very goog choice of food but we didn't want to risk to have only the choice of one kind of food in Aktse.
In the evening the men which I met the day before gave us many hints for Sarek so that we had a wide variety of options in Sarek.

08.08.2006 Sitojaure - Aktse
This was again a day (the last) on the Kungsleden. With nice weather we followed the path through the beautyfull Ávtsusjvágge. Also Christian who was the first time in Sweden was very impressed of the landscape. Very nice is it already short after Saltoluokta when you are out of the trees.
At about 2pm we arrived at Sitojaure and therefore we decided to continue to Aktse on the same day. I think this was already the first big mistake. 29 km with almost full backpacks was too much for Christian. I myself had no problem with it after a week of hiking but for the first day it is too much even if you are well trained.
In any case Christian was rather exhausted as we arrived in Aktse.
Already last year Aktse was one of my favourite huts and again it was very beautyfull there. And of course the shop had everything so it wouldn't have been necessary to carry all the stuff from Saltoluokta to Aktse.
Regarding our further way we decided in the evening to walk to Mikka and decide there the further direction. After that Christian disappered in his tent.

09.08.2006 Skierffe - Start into Sarek
In the morning we discovered the only disadvantage of Aktse - because of the trees the sun appears very late so that it took very long to dry the tents. So we made an exception and started a little bit later as usual.
The first part led us up to Skierffe. Again fooled us the scandinavian distance. It seems that the next summit is Skierrfe but then there appears another mountain and after that an new one and so on. So in the end it was almost noon when we reached the Skierrfe summit. But even if it would take a day - this mountain is it worth. The overwhelming view to the Rapadalen 600 meter below is indescribable and also photographs show only incomplete.
One of the reasons coming back to sweden already one year after I walked on the Kungsleden was this view - because I didn't walk to Skierffe last year and I must say only this view was it worth traveling again two days in train one way.
After a long time of enjoying we continued our way. Originally we planned to go back to Aktse to start our tour in the Rapadalen but after the tips from all the other people we continued high above the Rapadalen. And I think that was a good decision - at least we had the view over this great valley for the whole day.
On the flank of the Gierdogiesjtjåhkkå we got into a difficult area because we where to lazy and though we could save some height and now it got steeper and steeper. We managed it fighting until the small river but there was no chance of crossing it because the river bed was at this point a steep and smooth rock. So we had finally to climb up the height we wanted to save. On some points that was relly exciting carrying more than 20 kilos on the back. And Christian had already problems with his heel.
But we also managed this and after the mountain Suorkitjåhkkå we stopped on a nice place near a little river for the night.
There where also some very curious rendeer which come very close.

10.08.2006 Rapadalen
In the morning we continued our way over the Rapadalen but after some time we had to go down. We tried to avoid the bushes as good as possible but there was some distance where we had to go through bushes and/or swampy area to get to the path near the river. According to the map I guess that it was less than 2 km but it took us almost 1.5 hours. After that and because there is no big view walking at the river we where very glad that we choosed in the day before the way over the valley.
After the morning was rather ok this part caused again problems for Christian. Now it wasn't his heel but his knee. After we where walking almost the whole day through bushes, Christian was fighting further to find a camping place over the bushes. So we continued until the lake Snávvájávvre where not only we found a good camping place. Beside our clothes we washed also ourselves in that lake but we prefered to swim only a short distance in this lake ;-)

11.08.2006 Guhkesvágge
A short time after we passed the very steep passage called Spökstenen we decided to change our plannings because Christians knee didn't got better. Originally we wanted to continue to Mikka and decide there if we go back and leave through the valley with all the lakes (Bielajávrátja, Bierikjávrre..) which was the first plan or if we continue towards north according to one of the many options we knew form the people we met.
Now we decided to save the distance to Mikka and go direct towards that valley. The way towards the first lake led us over nice green and almost flat ground and we managed it to avoid most of the swamps. It was a very nice way along the lakes and we made a very long rest at the end of Bierikjávrre because it was a great scenery but also because Christinas knee got worse.
After the rest we continued our way towards our goal for today the bridge over the Guhkesvákkjåhkå. But we had to go up a little bit to a pass which leads over to the Guhkesvágge and Christian became more and more slow. And finally I could persuade him to give me at least his tent and his proviant box. But just when we had that pass behind us we saw a rain-front in the Guhkesvágge coming towards us (the clouds became already short after our rest more and more).
Because the ground was not to bad we decided to put up our tents and save the last two kilmoeter. That was a perfect timing, just when it started to rain we could disapper in our tents. The rain stopped later but in the hope that Christians knee would regenerate a little we stayed on this place for the night.

12.08.2006 Leaving Sarek - Ghäppo
This morning we where much faster than the evening before so we reached the bridge soon and with that the border of Sarek. So it was only a short time in Sarek but nevertheless an adventure and the adventure should continue even after we left Sarek.
Soon the ground became harder (more rocks) what caused again difficulties for Christians knee.
At this point we had still two options: walking almost direct to Saltoluokta or going north over the dam to the road at Suorva. The second option is shorter in distance but according to the map it would be much more heigth-difference. So we decided for the first option which is almost flat and we hoped to avoid the bushes as good as possible.
But in the end we had to pass for certain distance through bushes and swampy ground. There Christians knee failed complete. So from there I carried both backpacks through, in difficult area (throug swamps or difficult rocks) one after the other on easier ground both at once.
Unfortunately the ground was for quite big distance strewn with big rocks so that I often had to walk three times.
In the afternoon thunderstorms started all around us. When we were near the mountain Gähppo we decided to put up our tents. That was not to early. We where still building the tents when the thunderstorm started over us with thick raindrops.
It took about one hour with some very close lightning stroke until the sun appeared again.
This day we decided to continue the way so after our tents dryed a little we started again. But after about one hour when we reached a small river I decided to stop. Even if I'm well trained and I have the strength to carry two backpacks I felt that the 40 kilos was to much for my left foot. And at least one of us both should stay healthy for the next and final day.
And besides was it a nice camping place with a great view to the big lakes in the north/east and the mountains between. And also the rendeer excrements all around didn't bother me in eating enormous quantities after that day ;-)

13.08.2006 Return to Saltoluokta
To take care of my foot I started carried the backpacks single so that I walked the way three times. But after a while we changed the system and Christian carried his pack as long as I was carrying mine then I got back to him took his pack and carried it to mine pack carried from there my pack further while Christian was taking his pack again when he arrived. So we came ahead quite fast.
At least the wheater was with exception of the thunderstorm on the day before very fine while I did that extra work on this two days so it wasn't so bad and I accepted it as an extra training ;-).
And also the view down to the Pietsaure and the rest of the landscape was very nice and the way quite easy. Only the part when we went down to the lake was very steep. But the height difference isn't too much so it was only a relative short passage.
In the early afternoon we arrived at Saltoluokta and celebrated it with some beer after we hadn't any beer the last four days and on the evening we enjoyed the dinner at Saltoluokta.

14.08.2006 - 19.08.2006
On the next day we travelled towards Stockholm what was no problem with the perfect timetable of boat, bus and train.
In Stockholm we where surprised of a Culturefestival which took place exact in the week which we spent in Stockholm.
So on every place in the city was theater, concert or other shows.
Additional we visited some museeum and the Skansen park where we saw the big animals which we missed in Sarek ;-)


All in all it was a great holiday especially because the rain at home while I had almost only sunshine.
And also carrying two backpacks seems to have at least one good thing - on a running competition on my home mountain I achieved a new personell record ;-).

I'm sure that I will return to Sweden again - maybe already next year?

jackknife
29.10.2006, 22:24
Danke, schöner Reisebericht. Nur warum verfasst Du in einem deutschen Forum Deinen Bericht in englisch? Finde ich etwas affig ( sorry ).
Gibt doch noch genug Leute, die nicht so firm sind im Englischen und die werden damit ausgegrenzt.

vince
29.10.2006, 22:40
Den Bericht hab ich in Englisch geschrieben (sorry), da ich auch ein paar Urlaubs-Bekanntschaften damit versorgen möchte und zweimal schreiben wollte ich ihn auch nicht :bg: (außerdem bin ich ja nicht der erste, der hier auf englisch schreibt :wink: )



Ich finds ok, auch wenn ich einer der ausgegrenzten bin, :) da ich im englischen nicht so firm (wasn das? fit ?) bin.

jackknife
29.10.2006, 23:14
jetzt habe ich es auch gelesen. Gemäkel storniert.

Allgäuer
05.11.2006, 19:35
jackknive Du hast irgendwie recht, deshalb will ich's doch noch mit einer Übersetzung versuchen.
Jetzt kommt ja die ruhigere Jahreszeit, wo ich vielleicht etwas länger vor'm PC verbringe, so daß ich hoffentlich spätestens im Weihnachtsurlaub so weit sein sollte.
Der Zeitplan könnte nur durcheinander kommen, wenn jetzt der Winter richtig loslegen würde :D (ich wil endlich meine neuen Tourenski fahren :motz: )

Grüsse
Matthias